That does sound like a slipping clutch.Check the cable adjustment is correct at both ends, handlebar and the actuating mechanism in the sprocket cover.....
Been using the bike for cummuting to and from work recently, I've noticed this problem only appears to be happening when I'm giving it a lot of throttle and moving across a lane to overtake something, all the time it happens when I go up on the raised lines, and earlier there was a small dip in the road and I was gunning it down that road and as soon as I went down this dip (literally a few inches the revs just shot up and the bike was no longer accelerating for a second.I don't know if any of this is helpful but basically this is the only time it happens, doesn't happen when I'm just riding fast in a straight line or a bend unless there is a change in the surface height.
Quote from: Grant1Shepherd on 30 August 2018, 01:39:07 amBeen using the bike for cummuting to and from work recently, I've noticed this problem only appears to be happening when I'm giving it a lot of throttle and moving across a lane to overtake something, all the time it happens when I go up on the raised lines, and earlier there was a small dip in the road and I was gunning it down that road and as soon as I went down this dip (literally a few inches the revs just shot up and the bike was no longer accelerating for a second.I don't know if any of this is helpful but basically this is the only time it happens, doesn't happen when I'm just riding fast in a straight line or a bend unless there is a change in the surface height. If it's the clutch then you'll be able to provoke slip at 8,500 rpm with the throttle fully open (regardless of what gear you’re in). A long steep uphill straight is obviously best for this sort of test.Are you sure the slip isn’t the rear wheel losing traction? If it only happens when the road gets bumpy perhaps you should be taking a look at the suspension linkages, rear shock and tyre.
Do you actually have any play at the lever end, or does the lever snap right back when you let go?
You’re right, it probably is the clutch slipping if it only happens when the oil is cold, you hadn’t mentioned that previously.Check the condition and adjustment of the clutch cable and make sure the actuator in the sprocket cover is greased and not making odd clicking noises.Buy some OE springs and a new clutch cover gasket as the old one will probably get destroyed. Replacing the springs is straightforward: put the bike on the sidestand, so long as it isn't overfilled with oil you don't need to drain it.To do the job you do not need to take the clutch pressure plate off, but if you do want to look at the friction plates don't lose the ball bearing at the tip of the pushrod and do make sure the pressure plate goes back on in the same position when you're done. It is not symmetrical, if it gets put back rotated it'll appear to fit but will give no drive and can get damaged. When reassembling, I like to uses a thin smear of liquid gasket on the engine cases to glue the new gasket in position and a thin smear of non-moly grease on the mating surface of the clutch cover. That way, the next time you take it off the gasket should be undamaged... I've been able to take mine off half a dozen times since without needing to buy another gasket.Hopefully you now have a Fazer with a healthy clutch. If not, you will need to change the friction plates, but at least you shouldn't need a new gasket.Finally, the levers at the handlebars often get neglected, Cleaning and lubricating the pivots with heavy grease can make a huge difference to the feel of both clutch and brake.
I had the same thing. Give it power and once i get to 6k rpm it used to just jump to redline. Eventually it started stuttering even at low rpm. New clutch plates put it and it was back to normal.