Date: 29-03-24  Time: 06:58 am

Author Topic: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?  (Read 2177 times)

ProdigalSon

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Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« on: 23 July 2018, 10:04:23 pm »
Well due to my shifts and not living anywhere near where Falcon269 was doing fittings back in the day when he was doing them I've decided it's do or die and do it myself. So today I ordered a Full Monty kit from SG Racing and I shall tackle the job when they arrive.
I was just wondering if anyone had any pearls of wisdom as to things to do and not to do, I'm assuming the bike hasn't already been done by the previous owner. The AIS is still in place and I have a blanking kit for that as well so may do that whilst I have the tank off. Not because I removing it makes any difference to performance I gather the main reason is ease of access to the spark plugs?
Any advice, apart from foc off , is greatly appreciated. :)

ram

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #1 on: 23 July 2018, 10:40:50 pm »
i guess you've read this 1st?http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html

ProdigalSon

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #2 on: 23 July 2018, 11:18:32 pm »
i guess you've read this 1st?http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html



No I hadn't so thanks for posting that, pretty much exactly what I need other than it seems a lot more involved and time consuming than I thought but hopefully patience will be rewarded. I'm just hoping I haven't thrown money down the drain with it having already been done as I don't really notice the vibration referred to and the bike generally seems to pull pretty smoothly right through the rev range. The only thing I do notice is that it's a bit inconsistent sometimes when starting from cold, but that may be due to changes in ambient temperature and my previous bikes being FI so I didn't have to worry about a choke. :)

Falcon 269

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #3 on: 24 July 2018, 06:54:35 am »
Although old now, Pat's instructions and the addendums to it cover pretty much everything for this job.  However, it doesn't mention porting the intake boots or modding the airbox lid, both of which are necessary parts of the Full Monty installation.

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47373&highlight=intake+boot+mods

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17064&highlight=Ivans+air+box+mod

The first example of modding an airbox lid in the above post is incorrect.  Read on to find the proper way to do it. :)

Addendum II to Pat's instructions were written by me under my old forum name.  I urge you also to replace the float valve seat O-rings while you have the carbs apart.  That's covered in Addendum III.

A few other things which I would change if writing this today:

Only drill one of the pilot bypass holes.  Do the one nearest to you of the two that Ivan enlarges.  It's the middle one, not the one that is furthest from the throttle plate.  Pat's Site shows this clearly.  I found that it gives all the performance benefits that doing two holes does.  Why double your chances of breaking a bit for no gain?  Also, if the holes are over-enlarged they might cause over-rich idle mixture.  Enlarging only one prevents this occurring.

Set the mixture screws at 4 1/4 turns out.

Important!  Pull the EXUP cables and coolant hose out from behind the airbox before sliding it back.  They will sit clear of the frame on the right side of the bike.  Also, make sure the block on the cable tie holding the rubber tank damper on the frame crossrail doesn't foul the airbox.  These two steps ensure you get maximum clearance between carbs and airbox which makes carb removal a lot easier.

Be really careful with the bolts holding the intake stubs in place.  It is vital that you use a well-fitting, good quality allen bit on these because many are corroded in place.  I use a Snap-On bit on a 1/4" drive wrench, never a regular allen wrench.  These socket heads are not the greatest quality and I have had a few round off on me even with the right gear. 
You'll probably find one or two of yours will be tight but - with luck and careful application of additional torque - they will eventually come free ... usually with a nasty 'crack' as the corrosion gives way.  If you round one off - unlucky - be ready to do some engineering improvision!

You will probably find the float bowl screws equally corroded but these are much better quality stainless and - with the right screwdriver - much less likely to strip.  However, if you have an impact driver, use it.

If you haven't already bought the air filter, I recommend a Pipercross filter from Trumpet Tyres.  Check ebay.  If you've ordered a K&N filter, don't be surprised if you have to dremel the top flange to get it to fit.

You can contact me by PM if you have any questions during the course of the job.  Take your time and all should be fine. :)
Mike
PS.  You can check to see if it's been 'Ivanised' already by simply removing one of the carb tops and inspecting the throttle slide spring.  If it has been clipped, it's a good indication that something has been done.  Remove the needle next and inspect it.  Stock is single taper and has SD-130 or SD-129 stamped around the top.  Dynojerk needles are the same profile as stock but have 8 e-clip grooves.  Ivan's needles clearly have different tapers ground into them. 

 
« Last Edit: 29 July 2018, 04:36:11 pm by Falcon 269 »

5LV

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #4 on: 24 July 2018, 09:57:48 am »
As Mike has already shared his wisdom, thread closed!
Hardest bit of the whole job is carbs off and on again.

JonnyFoxtrot

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #5 on: 24 July 2018, 02:26:03 pm »
As someone in the same boat wanting to do this, if anything Mike's post has put me off haha

I am bound to fuck something up!!

I'll just keep telling myself it feels fine I think lol

ProdigalSon

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #6 on: 24 July 2018, 04:15:52 pm »
Mike, thank you very much for taking the time to post such a comprehensive reply, I've noted what you've said about drilling only one bypass hole and the necessity to modify the airbox. It does state in the instructions I received that the airbox mod must be done and I was going to ask if this is really necessary but your reply has cleared that on up.


I shall order a Pipercross filter and I'm also thinking of replacing the end can of my exhaust but I won't if it's not necessary, it currently has a road legal Leo Vince can on there with non removable baffle, thoughts on whether I need to put a more free flowing exhaust on would be appreciated. I don't need it just for the noise, I don't like advertising to any police that may be around that I may be going a little quicker than I should be! :)

PieEater

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #7 on: 24 July 2018, 08:01:27 pm »
... thoughts on whether I need to put a more free flowing exhaust on would be appreciated....
When I had my bike Dyno'd after having had the full monty done I got them to do runs with the baffle in and with it out. With the baffle out it produced 7hp more and the fuelling was also better, I can definitely feel the difference when riding. The full monty kit is designed for a free flowing exhaust so to get the most out of it you would need to replace your can if it is restrictive. If you don't want to mod the airbox and intake rubbers as well as replace your end can maybe you can swap out your full monty kit with the slip-on kit !?!
« Last Edit: 24 July 2018, 08:05:12 pm by PieEater »

Falcon 269

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #8 on: 24 July 2018, 09:52:12 pm »
Pulling and refitting the carbs takes about 15 minutes each way ... if you've done it a few times. ;)  So, in practical terms it's actually pretty easy.  I realize that in real world terms, for someone doing it for the first time it takes a lot longer and you need to take your time to figure out the best tool to use, how to approach it and how much effort to apply to things like sliding the carbs out. 

The reason the instructions out there on the web are a little daunting is because they are so comprehensive.  Don't let that put you off.  :)

I would see how it feels and runs with the Leo Vince can and - if necessary - keep your eyes open on ebay for a nice used can with a removable baffle, if you decide you want to try something less restrictive.

ProdigalSon

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #9 on: 25 July 2018, 06:08:31 pm »
Pulling and refitting the carbs takes about 15 minutes each way ... if you've done it a few times. ;)  So, in practical terms it's actually pretty easy.  I realize that in real world terms, for someone doing it for the first time it takes a lot longer and you need to take your time to figure out the best tool to use, how to approach it and how much effort to apply to things like sliding the carbs out. 

The reason the instructions out there on the web are a little daunting is because they are so comprehensive.  Don't let that put you off.  :)

I would see how it feels and runs with the Leo Vince can and - if necessary - keep your eyes open on ebay for a nice used can with a removable baffle, if you decide you want to try something less restrictive.
Mike, I've got it all dismantled, I've sent you a PM before I do anything wrong that I can't reverse!!! :)

ProdigalSon

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #10 on: 25 July 2018, 11:38:01 pm »
As someone in the same boat wanting to do this, if anything Mike's post has put me off haha

I am bound to fuck something up!!

I'll just keep telling myself it feels fine I think lol


Well it took me considerably longer than the 15 minutes it takes Mike to pull the carbs but I was being very careful and it took me a while to work out how to disconnect the throttle cables and get to the 2nd from right inlet stub clamp allen bolt due to the cam chain tensioner. I've done the stripping down and cleaned up my carbs and I shall set about doing the actual modding tomorrow. Don't be put off  doing it just be patient and take your time, ideally if you haven't got them buy a set of extra long allen keys for the inlet stubs it will make your life a whole lot easier. Also I disconnected the throttle cables at the handlebars and you then release the bottom ends once you slide the carbs out.


Graham.

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #11 on: 26 July 2018, 07:09:22 am »
I use a hex drive extension bar and hex bit for the inlet stubs, fitted to a 1/4" ratchet driver.  Much easier and useful tools to have around afterwards.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300MM-EXTRA-LONG-MAGNETIC-SCREWDRIVER-DRILL-BIT-BAR-EXTENSION-HEX-ADAPTOR-19/282286840091?epid=2254532544&hash=item41b99b591b:g:jeYAAOSwcUBYTDd8

The trouble with releasing the throttle cables at the bar end is getting them routed correctly again on the refit if you pull them all the way out.  I'm guessing you didn't but wanted to clarify this in case someone else misunderstood. :)

I prefer to leave the cables connected at the throttle end but wind in the adjuster there all the way to give max slack to the inner cables.  When the carbs slide out past cylinder #1 , I turn them sideways towards the cylinder head, hold them in my left hand and use my right to release the cables from the pulley.  This is where a small hooked tool comes in handy.

ProdigalSon

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Re: Fitting an Ivans kit, any advice re do's and don'ts?
« Reply #12 on: 26 July 2018, 10:40:53 pm »
Mike,
Thanks for the tip re the extra long hex wrench I shall buy one for the pennies they cost, yes I completely disconnected the throttle cables at the bar end end before disconnecting at the bottom. That's the problem with being a novice again, I haven't worked on a proper bike in years but my circumstances now are that I can't really afford to just take my bike to a dealer. So it's back to relearning motorcycle DIY and trial and error, hopefully I'll be able to get the cables back and working correctly, after all how hard can it be?  :lol
Graham.