Date: 18-04-24  Time: 13:25 pm

Author Topic: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain  (Read 7569 times)

Gnasher

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #25 on: 01 June 2018, 06:54:04 am »
It's easier to use 2nd gear instead of 1st.
If you take the spark plugs out the engine will be easier to turn.


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Farmboy81

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #26 on: 01 June 2018, 07:44:10 am »
I put mine in 5th and rolled it back while sat on it (I also tried to do it by hand in first, and failed).

Bretty

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #27 on: 01 June 2018, 08:23:04 am »
How does rolling the bike backwards 'reset' the camchain tensioner?! That makes no sense.

If your trying to make the tensioner go another click, by putting any chain slack to the back of the engine, you want to push the bike forwards, surely! Assuming that does anything. It would probably be more effective to remove the centre screw (spring and ballbearing) from the tensioner and push a screwdriver in the hole.
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BBROWN1664

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #28 on: 01 June 2018, 08:33:57 am »
How does rolling the bike backwards 'reset' the camchain tensioner?! That makes no sense.

If your trying to make the tensioner go another click, by putting any chain slack to the back of the engine, you want to push the bike forwards, surely! Assuming that does anything. It would probably be more effective to remove the centre screw (spring and ballbearing) from the tensioner and push a screwdriver in the hole.

not sure how it works but it does. As for putting a screwdriver down the middle of the adjuster, you need to get the carbs out to do that. If you have gone that farm your better off pulling the adjuster out first to see if it is, like mine, actually clean, working and (unlike mine) not on the last adjustment.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again

Gnasher

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #29 on: 01 June 2018, 09:51:50 am »
By turning the engine backwards it's crates a little bit of slack (I mean little) this slack if it's large enough, will allow the tensioner to click up to the next notch.  We're talking mm here and it's not always successful, in which case you need to remove and reset the tensioner, if that doesn't work replace it as the tooth it now needs to engage with is worn/damaged.


If that doesn't work it's highly likely the chain is now worn and will need to be replaced.  All that said Fazers have an extremely reliable cam chain mechanism, often the noise owners think is cam chain isn't, it's out of balance carbs or clutch rattle.     
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mobile mouse

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #30 on: 01 June 2018, 11:04:47 pm »
decided on way home once warmed up to ride in only 1, 2, 3 and 4th gear.
So nice and high reving to 8-9k at times.
Also cooled down and back to normal riding a mile from home.


Bike sounded smoother before switch off.
Maybe I hope any slack in cam chain adjuster was taken up....


I really enjoyed the ride, roads are a lot quieter as kids are on half term hols here....
And Friday afternoon usually quieter here also....

Bretty

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #31 on: 01 June 2018, 11:38:00 pm »
Show the bike the redline now and again. The inertia mismatch between the cam and crank shafts will put more slack into the cam chain when revving up and down from 2000-12,000rpm, than you will ever generate by rolling the bike backwards!!!
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Gnasher

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #32 on: 02 June 2018, 09:31:58 am »
Just rev it up to 10k ish in 2/3 gears every now and then, job done :D 
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mobile mouse

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Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« Reply #33 on: 19 June 2018, 08:15:35 pm »
road home from work with a transformed bike.......
The cam chanin tensioner must have advanced on my ride to work this morning...


What a difference the bike feels so different.


Not sure how long it will last as I have just clicked over 50k miles...