Check the the cable adjustment at the engine casing and the operation of the pull/lever/rod and bearings, before you start tearing things down.
Does it slip into neutral easily when stopped or keep missing it and going to second or first which ever way you are trying?
What Unfazed means is... Is it easy to get into neutral when you stop or is it difficult?
In what way, should there be a specific amount of cable from the end of the adjuster bolt and the arm? to change position of the arm pivot position?I assume I can only do this with the cover off? and assuming that what am looking for other than bearing wear and play..?
The fact you can't get enough free play at the bar is an indication something is wrong. You need to check the operation of the cable, all the adjusters and the clutch release mechanism from one end to the other. Slacken off the lever adjuster and see if the cable is moving freely, then check the arm pivot for movement/operation. It's possible the cable is dry/damaged/out of adjustment and now over stretched and in need of replacement.
Screw the cable adjuster at the lever back all the way allowing plenty of slack and adjust it at the engine end
Great info there Gnasher - the clutch action on my own Fazer Thou is very heavy. It is smooth but damn heavy. I need to check it out properly. Trouble is that I don't know what the previous owner has/hasn't done to the bike.
Often owners fit up rated springs or just replacements that aren't the same spring rate or length as Std.
I'm going to check the arm and see if there is any freeplay in the arm-shaft bearing.
reference adjustable levers, even good one's really play havoc's with the feel and setting of clutches and won't help. The tolerances on the dimensions just isn't there and a mm here and there can make a huge difference. I've had this issue many times on owners bikes I've worked on, same with brake levers. From what you've thus far told us and providing there no real issues the the clutch basket, my money is on the non OE springs and plates. As I said earlier the clutch release mechanism moves only a matter of a few mm, non OE plates can be slightly thinner, thus cheaper or indeed thicker to compensate for lower spec material being used, same with springs. If what you've now done hasn't worked, I'd go for springs, change these for OE easy to do. Or while you've got the cover off just strip the clutch and check all the plates for wear/thickness and warpage just remember to put them back in the correct order.
Check the pivot hole in the old lever you removed and see if it has elongated.
Sounds like the cheap levers to me.The only way to know for sure is to swap the clutch lever back and see if the problem occurs immediately.
these adjustable levers are often a source of problems