funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that todaywith the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at allwithout a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc
Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 29 March 2018, 03:21:53 pmyeah i was cleaning the chain and decided to just start her up and let her spin the wheel on the paddock stand as i sprayed the hose at it to remove the cleaner and it was bouncing all over the place- turns out it was just riding the front sprocket a bit - its fine when its under loadIt's the momentum of the wheel gaining speed but the chain won't let it go faster than the engine speed, which causes that shuddering effect.Get quite a few people freaked out by it when it happens, but as you say just a very tiny bit of throttle levels it out.
yeah i was cleaning the chain and decided to just start her up and let her spin the wheel on the paddock stand as i sprayed the hose at it to remove the cleaner and it was bouncing all over the place- turns out it was just riding the front sprocket a bit - its fine when its under load
Quote from: His Dudeness on 31 March 2018, 03:55:43 pmI've a theory that it's the exhaust resonating at 6k that causes the problem. I just need someone mad enough to go flying up the road with no exhaust to test the theory done it - for some reason people kept looking at me
I've a theory that it's the exhaust resonating at 6k that causes the problem. I just need someone mad enough to go flying up the road with no exhaust to test the theory
17 tooth sprocket arrived today, big bastered... as soon as it stops raining I'll attempt to fit it and let you all know my opinion.
Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 28 March 2018, 11:19:16 pmfunny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that todaywith the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at allwithout a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etcI dont have the confidence in the marks on the swingarm. Last two times ive had to do it, ive set up two strings down the sides of the bike and measured from the wheels. The chain seems to sit better in the sprocket teeth this way.
i have a feeling if you go 17 it will be a remeasure and longer chain so your stuck with it once riveted or throwing money awayi think we are at 110 links standard
Quote from: agricola on 31 March 2018, 08:19:27 pmQuote from: Disorderlypunk on 28 March 2018, 11:19:16 pmfunny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that todaywith the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at allwithout a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etcI dont have the confidence in the marks on the swingarm. Last two times ive had to do it, ive set up two strings down the sides of the bike and measured from the wheels. The chain seems to sit better in the sprocket teeth this way. I think I know the way you are talking but - more detail please.Two string lines, one down each side of the bike, tied around the rear wheel so that the strings just kiss the front and rear edges of the tyre, with bike on centre stand. Strings taut and fastened to something to hold them taut beyond the front wheel. Use eyesight to align front and rear tyers as near central as you can. Use the rear wheel adjusters to align rear with front, might sound complicated but its a doddle, there is only one point at which the measurement from the strings to the tyre edge of each tyre is equal. Note front and rear measurements will not be the same due to tyre size difference. Take note of chain tension while adjusting. Hope that helps. Im sure others swear by other methods, but this is the method ill use and will continue to use until I come across a more accurate way of doing it, so there
Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.
Quote from: Triggergee on 03 April 2018, 10:20:38 pmBad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain. The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm
Quote from: celticdog on 04 April 2018, 03:55:48 pmQuote from: Triggergee on 03 April 2018, 10:20:38 pmBad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain. The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm Ah cool didn't think of that, don't suppose it really matters where the brake caliber is in relation to the disc. As soon as I've finished cleaning petrol off my kitchen floor from washing out my forks I'll get the angle grinder out and cut out an inch from either side
Quote from: Triggergee on 04 April 2018, 04:56:07 pmQuote from: celticdog on 04 April 2018, 03:55:48 pmQuote from: Triggergee on 03 April 2018, 10:20:38 pmBad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain. The other option, elongate the slots on the swingarm Ah cool didn't think of that, don't suppose it really matters where the brake caliber is in relation to the disc. As soon as I've finished cleaning petrol off my kitchen floor from washing out my forks I'll get the angle grinder out and cut out an inch from either side STOP - think what your doing first bloody hell i dont know if your joking or not so i will put this anywayyou will hit your cross brace on the swingarm you will get so close it will at least be rubbing
Rather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect. I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chain
Quote from: Millietant on 06 April 2018, 10:51:03 pmRather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect. I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chainyep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easierand also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----
Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 07 April 2018, 12:00:57 amQuote from: Millietant on 06 April 2018, 10:51:03 pmRather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect. I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chainyep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easierand also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----Whilst you are on the maths there is also another factor in that certain combo's of teath will create a situation where the same link will hit the same tooth over and over again. It was discussed on here a while back - have a search.
Quote from: fazersharp on 07 April 2018, 10:23:19 amQuote from: Disorderlypunk on 07 April 2018, 12:00:57 amQuote from: Millietant on 06 April 2018, 10:51:03 pmRather than gong up 2 teeth on the front, I usually go 1 tooth up on the front and 2 teeth down on the back - pretty much the same overall ratio change, but it also means the standard chain length is perfect. I'm not a fan of adding just a couple of links - no reason other than my own mental issues of 2 home done links in the one chainyep the correct way is to do that that, i think the idea here is a quick switch (15 mins to switch and adjust for front sprocket)im not doing a full maths spreadsheet on this (i said that last time lol)i have a feeling not everyone here has a paddock stand to do full switches so its just easierand also its £5 for a front sprocket and much more for a rear so quick switch is worthy of a trial run-- if we dont test run it we dont know ----Whilst you are on the maths there is also another factor in that certain combo's of teath will create a situation where the same link will hit the same tooth over and over again. It was discussed on here a while back - have a search. I can see the logic, but in over 40 years of making this change on all of my in-line 4's, I've never had a sprocket or chain wear/fail early. In fact, I've generally changed my chains and sprockets due to my "impression" of mileage & timescale, rather than anything actually being worn-out (prevention being the best way to avoid problems).Having said that, my FJ 1200's have both run well over 20k mikes on each chain and sprocket set, as did my Aprilia RSV. I changed the Fazer 1000 originals at 17k miles just because I wanted to alter the gearing, not because they were worn out.Maybe I'm just lucky !