Date: 28-03-24  Time: 17:41 pm

Author Topic: New Stator, Rectifier and battery, but voltages only slightly goes up????  (Read 4264 times)

Volgen83

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Hi Everyone,


I'm new here and thought first i should say hello all.


About 2 weeks ago i notices my head lights pulsing when the bike was warming up, very slight but you could see it.
i checked the battery and gave it a charge, a few days later the same thing and found the battery was not being charged so went down the stator route, the stator itself was not putting out any voltage so replaced it.
but... same issue, after checking the outputs of the rectifier i replaced that and the battery as it was a bit old.


And here i am, new stator which is putting 72v AC and the rectifier is putting out 14.2volts DC at 2.5k RPM.
i have pulled the tank off and tested the ground cable from the rectifier and the battery, cant see any damaged or warn wiring, rectifier plus seems ok, i get a reading from the battery via the lead but when it's all connected up and bike is at 2.5k RPM i'm only seeing a rise of .50Volts DC and at idle im loosing 0.03 Volts every few seconds as if there's a drain. i'm stumped only thing i can actually find thats not right is the resistance off the 3 white wires from the stator is 0.8 ohms.


i'm outta ideas. anyone wiser than me have any clue?

celticbiker

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Are you getting a charge voltage at the battery but the battery isn't charging or is there no charge voltage at the battery at all?
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Trebus

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14.2V at 2.5k RPM sounds good to me without referring to the manual. If you have the lights on when testing it is normal for the voltage to drop at idle. As long as the voltage picks up when you increase the revs you should be good. Also make sure all connections to the stator and Reg/Rec are nice and clean as high resistance will cause problems.

Volgen83

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im reading a voltage off the battery and when i start the bike the voltage starts to drop, slowly, as i increases revs the voltage goes up bu no where near what it should be.

i have checked the output at the rectifier and its bang on but there's an issue between the rectifier and the battery (just a guess) i have checked all the wiring and connections, can't see anything obvious.
i have a spare harness (ebay) and may butcher the plug to the rectifier from it and hope i have enough spare cable on it to run direct to the battery, see if its the plug.

Volgen83

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Bypassed the Plug from the rectifier and no difference.

celticbiker

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Do you have continuity between the battery live and the rectifier output? Is there a fuse in your system between the two that might have blown?
Is there continuity between the battery negative and earth?
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agricola

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Volgen83

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i have continuity between the rectifier live and the battery live, and rectifier earth to main earth point on engine, same with the battery.
also checked the continuity from the rectifier to the battery, even the main fuse in and out and earth to fuse box, all seem good.

Mustang

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https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1x1ojthv4h7925/Troubleshooting%203P%20PMG%20%26%20RR.pdf?dl=0


If you read this it says the volts should not increase really when you rev the bike as long as your getting 14.2 at the battery, stop worrying and go ride your bike, when the snows gone.

Volgen83

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will do definitely go through that, just odd that im not getting the full 14v at the battery, gotta be missing something obvious 

old son

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I had a similar problem. I replaced the white connector block under the tank with power pole connectors. Problem solved!

5LV

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stop bloody worrying and ride the damn thing.
as long as you are getting 13+v with the lights on you're fine unless you have a crap battery.
mine runs at 12.9 at tick over and 13.7 when i rev it and 12.3 no load.

Gaz66

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Probly corrosion in 1 or more multi-plugs.
Had shit loads of grief with mine, removed a shitty Meta alarm, sorted every loom plug, everything's now minto.

Volgen83

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charging system is working as it should with all the tests i can throw at it,

appears to be a drain of some kind, about 1.5 volts dc (there about's) best reading i can get with the engine in idle and then rev'd to  and idled is about 13.2 volts with lights, fans, dash all fuses but ignition out of the bike.
have put fuses back in one by one to check for big changes, can't find the draw, i'm swaying towards the fuel pump or ignition coils (which will be fund to get at)

the best i would get at the start was 12.7 and after disconnecting and cleaning contacts, plugs and abit of wd40 that's the best i can get, so for the moment as long as i don't stop for red light too long the battery is getting topped up, but it's not ideal.

only thing left to check are plugs directly under airbox, ignition coils and will figure out how to check the fuel pump.

Volgen83

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oddly enough i have noticed the engine breaking is not as sharp as it was and the very faint (almost like a turbo spinning up) kinda noise on deceleration.

unfazed

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Its within Spec.  :eek


g5guzzi

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Hi Volgen
I have had a similar problem on 3 bikes where the voltage at the battery
 with the engine running was not as high as it ought to be.
One of which was a 1000 fazer.
The cure for my bikes was to add two extra wires one from the regulator
positive terminal straight to battery positive via a fuse and one from
regulator negative to battery negative. This gained just over a volt
putting the voltage  over 14 and on a bandit i have now runs at 14.9v
    How ever  if the battery is not a good one and is not fully charged
you are unlikely to get good readings.

Malc
   

Volgen83

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HI Malc,

yeah have tried that and no difference.

And now (drum role) bike sounds like its on 2 cylinders and sounds awful, so think its' time to take it in and let someone have a ganders. 


b1k3rdude

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14.2V at 2.5k RPM sounds good to me without referring to the manual.
Agreed, anything over 14v is good.

Gaz66

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If you suspect a voltage drain, you can't test for this with it running.



Test the charging output from Generator & compare it against what you have at the battery, if it's a massive difference, it'll likely to be high resistance in the loom caused by oxidisation, don't forget to test earth wiring too, you may be lucky & only have high resistance/corrosion in battery Poz & Neg wiring, seen this hundreds of times, clean every earth point on bike before testing any wiring, components need unplugging to Ohms test, ensure you know how to set Multimeter up before Ohms testing components or you'll burn out Multimeter, if high resistance is confirmed in the loom, the only cure is to rewire these sections to bring resistance back down.
You will likely have some loom sections with high resistance due to the age of bike, it's inevitable.

A fully charged good battery is required before you start & a decent Multimeter.


Vids on Youtube to help with Meter testing.


Same drain test applies on a bike or a car.
If you can't find this suspected drain by pulling fuses, unplugging components, you've likely got a resistance issue, probably in the charging circuit, or a faulty component, Ohms test components & wiring & check specs with manual.
All easy to test & costs nothing but time.
Just need to be methodical.

 :thumbup
Let us know how you get on
« Last Edit: 09 April 2018, 09:20:27 pm by Gaz66 »