15w oil in front end

[darrsi]

im loving the new oil - when my good camera gets back tomorrow i will show what the old oil had turned into
i have left it in a jar to let it settle and its some what unnerving - god knows how old it was

Ohhhhhhhhhh great thats  another thing I have got to do now then before I ride - Chain and sprockets soon, - including a swing arm strip and re lube (using a continuous chain ) I don't ride enough now as it is -- very tempted to by something new to cut out all the maintenance although I do get great satisfaction from doing my own maintenance it has to be said.

I've been saying this is a simple and inexpensive improvement for years, why are you suddenly convinced now? 

Yes I meant a continuous chain, thank you.
And its just that I don't listen to you that's all

Oh, okay, that's more understandable. 

[mobile mouse]

I found this table   https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/

it shows the viscosity of various fork oils.
you might be supprised at the viscosity of Silcolene rsf15 compared to Yamaha G15 which is Yamaha's 15W fork oil.

I was surprised at how the new ISO standard is being misinterpreted, see below...


Oil Conversion Chart

SAE-to-ISO



SAE                ISO/AW
10W                   32
15W or 20W        46
20W                    68
30W                   100

ISO and SAE are standardized specifications that define oil weight. This ensures that one brand's 30-weight oil is the same viscosity as another's.
This oil conversion chart is approximate.

I ended up going by the viscosity value and not what it says on the label.the 15W  fork oil I ended up buying was the Rock Oil SVI 15 with a viscosity of 48 close to the Yamaha 15W of 47.3

[darrsi]

I found this table   https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/

it shows the viscosity of various fork oils.
you might be supprised at the viscosity of Silcolene rsf15 compared to Yamaha G15 which is Yamaha's 15W for oil.

I was surprised at how the new ISO standard is being misinterpreted, see below...


Oil Conversion Chart

SAE-to-ISO



SAE            ISO/AW
10W            32
15W or 20W      46
20W            6830W            100

ISO and SAE are standardized specifications that define oil weight. This ensures that one brand's 30-weight oil is the same viscosity as another's.
This oil conversion chart is approximate.

I ended up going by the viscosity value and not what it says on the label.the 15W  fork oil I ended up buying was the Rock Oil SVI 15 with a viscosity of 48 close to the Yamaha 15W of 47.3

Surprised?
Nearly just fell over!
Saturday mornings, eh? 

[Disorderlypunk]

after leaving the oil to sit in a jar for nearly a week this happened
(this is just one fork the other is contaminated with leftover coffee granules)

Details

mostly water by the looks of that

[darrsi]

after leaving the oil to sit in a jar for nearly a week this happened
(this is just one fork the other is contaminated with leftover coffee granules)

Details

mostly water by the looks of that

Do you know when it was last changed?

[Disorderlypunk]

Do you know when it was last changed?

not a clue ive had it for a year and the bloke that had it before me didnt seem too clued up when it came to mechanical stuff so could be anything


i should have changed the seals aswell but i forgot to order them and im planning a USD conversion anyhow so unless they start weeping oil im not to bothered for now

[fazersharp]

Ok so I admit I have not done a search on here but have looked at a utube vid for complete refurb which needs special tools and stuff. What is the most easy way of changing my oil, can it be don in situ.
The thing is if I am taking them off and stripping down then while I am at it I will also be stripping the old lacquer off -buffing up - re lacquering blah blah, not to mention doing a"Harryhornby" and mullering something up, but all the time not having an issue with the handling in the first place. Do I really need to do it  ? 20 year old bike - never seen rain-20k miles with a 9 1/2 stone racing snake on board.   

[Disorderlypunk]

changing oil on its own is easy as anything as long as you have basic tools (socket set and allen keys) but a torque wrench is a good thing to have if you want to torque to spec (F-ing tight is the next best thing)
only when it comes to oil seals do you need anything a bit more specialist but you can get away with ingenuity a drift and a broomstick handle (i prefer the screw in mop handles)


a bench vice or black and decker workmate certainly makes life easier to clamp the stanchion while trying to get the top bolt back in but not essential if there is another set of hands available


something to drain the oil into (why i always have a box of empty coffee jars)


- if your mudguard has not been off in years be prepared for heartache though - the bolts often suffer from galvanic corrosion and will snap (£20 on front left) for some reason if it happens to me on a yam it is always front left, so take it easy use lots of plus gas/wd40/babyoil/ferrets urine whatever you use and wind it back and forth back and forth as you slowly remove the bolt - if it snaps then find someone who knows how to center drill and remove or helicoil (a good engineer will always try drill and remove first)


a quick read of the manual should give you a good idea on where alternative tools can be used just dont trust it when it says to go to chapter one as it within 4 lines tells you to go back to chapter .......6?

[Disorderlypunk]

I'm with Slaninar, Scottoiler all the way. It includes a cleaning fluid and chains last 3+ times as long, that's proven. The container holds enough oil for at least 500 miles, so how can you forget to top it up? Would you forget to check tyre pressures? Better Scottoil than that sticky dirt magnet stuff that comes out of cans.

500 miles - holy crap i would have to refill it every week at least
i agree with matt entirely on this

if you ride in all weathers they are not the best of ideas (although usefull to a degree) and as for 3x longer - in comparison to what ???
a properly looked after chain removing the road crap will last just as long as any scottoiler looked after chain, especially with o/x ring chains as we are no longer lubricating the inner rollers we are only lubricating the plates that hold the rollers together

[darrsi]

I don't use a Scottoiler, but tend to get the feeling when the chain needs a good scrub.
Oiled or not, if you ride during winter the chain will pick up shite from the road, it's unavoidable.
Just a case of common sense.
I actually use WD40 as a cleaner with a brush, then Wurth chain lube afterwards.
Done me alright for 30 years riding, so i'll stick with a proven method.

[tommyardin]

after leaving the oil to sit in a jar for nearly a week this happened
(this is just one fork the other is contaminated with leftover coffee granules)

Details

mostly water by the looks of that

Do you know when it was last changed?

Mine was dark, dark silvery grey and stank of fish, then there was the oil that came out of my forks 

[fazersharp]

galvanic corrosion

You see that's all I need to read to put me off.

I do have all the kit apart from the specialist tools.
Judging by the sludge in there I wonder how much good a simple replace oil would do.

[Disorderlypunk]

the black in the bottom is not sludge its oil, the clear on the top is water that as made its way past the seals
its definatly worth doing, the change in feel is more than noticable (but with that much water in its no suprise)
over time the oil breaks down and should be replaced anyhow, its just no1 does

[darrsi]

galvanic corrosion

You see that's all I need to read to put me off.

I do have all the kit apart from the specialist tools.
Judging by the sludge in there I wonder how much good a simple replace oil would do.

Why are you even contemplating the idea of changing 20 year old oil?
Just do it......and use 15w.
Then come back and tell everyone how you should've done it 20 years ago. 

[tommyardin]

galvanic corrosion

You see that's all I need to read to put me off.

I do have all the kit apart from the specialist tools.
Judging by the sludge in there I wonder how much good a simple replace oil would do.

Ooyy! Sharpie, I hope you don't think like that about your engine oil.

[fazersharp]

galvanic corrosion

You see that's all I need to read to put me off.

I do have all the kit apart from the specialist tools.
Judging by the sludge in there I wonder how much good a simple replace oil would do.

Ooyy! Sharpie, I hope you don't think like that about your engine oil.

What I was meaning was if it is gunky sludge without actually dismantling and giving a proper clean I am putting clean oil into dirty tubes.

[Disorderlypunk]

it pretty much all comes out as long as you give them a few pump and leave them upside down for a bit
99% new oil is better than 0% new oil
but yes a full dismantle would always be the best option when possible or absolutely required

[Slaninar]

I'm with Slaninar, Scottoiler all the way. It includes a cleaning fluid and chains last 3+ times as long, that's proven. The container holds enough oil for at least 500 miles, so how can you forget to top it up? Would you forget to check tyre pressures? Better Scottoil than that sticky dirt magnet stuff that comes out of cans.

500 miles - holy crap i would have to refill it every week at least
i agree with matt entirely on this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4xgcx6F6fw
if you ride in all weathers they are not the best of ideas (although usefull to a degree) and as for 3x longer - in comparison to what ???
a properly looked after chain removing the road crap will last just as long as any scottoiler looked after chain, especially with o/x ring chains as we are no longer lubricating the inner rollers we are only lubricating the plates that hold the rollers together

My experience differs. The chain is very clean, without the need to clean it. And it is always lubed. Combination of dirt that gets stuck to a lubricant makes for a nice grinding paste - one of the reasons the chain lasts a lot shorter, than a lot thinner cam shaft chain, that is always closed inside the engine, always clean and lubed. Scottoiler keeps the chain lubed, while the ("thin") oil flings off it along with any dirt  - so the chain stays both clean and lubed.

Using other methods, it's very hard to clean the chain between the pins and the rollers, where it matters.

[reaper1064]

Just done the 15w oil upgrade on mine, what a difference. Feels well planted now.

[Triggergee]

If anyone does want to go the full refurb route B&Q sell a 50mm waste pipe for a fiver or so that is a perfect fit to drive in the new oil seals. That and a broom handle is all the specialist tools you'll need

[mtread]

500 miles - holy crap i would have to refill it every week at least

Oh well that's 20 seconds of your life you'll never get back then