Date: 28-03-24  Time: 20:07 pm

Author Topic: Replacing Rear brake disc  (Read 10392 times)

Jules-C

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Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« Reply #50 on: 30 November 2017, 09:42:38 am »
Stainless steel is a lot cheaper than it used to be and the additional cost these days would be only 1p or 2p a bolt.  Additional cost for a new bike would be around £10.

tommyardin

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Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« Reply #51 on: 30 November 2017, 10:41:54 am »
Stainless Steel is a great product for sure, but alas it has it's own set of problems to, I sail and all the metal fittings on the yacht are stainless or brass because of salt water corrosion.
Turnbuckles on mast rigging on our boat are stainless steel and ideally should be taken off every 6 months or so to help stop 'Galling' (Please see link below)


The magic Red Rubber Grease is the yachtsman's friend, the other friend is patience, don't be in a hurry, now this might sound silly but bear with me, spinning a nut fast down a stainless steel thread can generate incredibly high temperatures just at the apex points of both the thread, this high temperature is lost very quickly but is instantly regenerated by the next revolution of the nut or fastener and on the process goes eventually welding the nut to the bolt (or Turnbuckles in my case).


On the boat I use waterproof grease on the thread (Red Rubber) and slowly tighten the parts up (don't spin the nut down the thread at high speed)


Now you might be thinking tommy is yet again talking poo, the same process can take place on other metals aluminium being one of them, a form of Galling is often what will strip the threads out of your rear wheel hub when changing your rear disc.
Take a look at the link it makes good reading, that exact link changed my understanding on contact friction and galling weld.
Now I wonder why I am so opposed to LocTite on threads that go into alloy, as if they did not have enough struggles with out that being added to the frame.     




     https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Galling.pdf
« Last Edit: 30 November 2017, 10:46:19 am by tommyardin »

Jamieg285

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Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« Reply #52 on: 30 November 2017, 12:48:39 pm »
That's an interesting read.  It makes me think that perhaps I should ditch the air wratchet (not impact driver) when rebuilding and stick to hand tools.

darrsi

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Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« Reply #53 on: 30 November 2017, 01:17:25 pm »
As an engineer I would agree, practical functional and future proof but button heads are considered more aesthetically pleasing.
If practicality was a consideration everything would be Stainless and bike would be a lot more expensive.
It goes together quick, looks pretty and the components are cheap. One it's our of warranty it's your problem.


Disc i just put on has a circular area machined into the disc where the allen head bolt heads sit perfectly inside them, so a hex head bolt wouldn’t work with this particular one, but i’d imagine most other discs are just a flat sheet of metal so it would work okay.
I’ll definitely do some research next time and see what’s about.
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celticdog

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Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« Reply #54 on: 01 December 2017, 07:19:13 am »
As an engineer I would agree, practical functional and future proof but button heads are considered more aesthetically pleasing.
If practicality was a consideration everything would be Stainless and bike would be a lot more expensive.
It goes together quick, looks pretty and the components are cheap. One it's our of warranty it's your problem.


Disc i just put on has a circular area machined into the disc where the allen head bolt heads sit perfectly inside them, so a hex head bolt wouldn’t work with this particular one, but i’d imagine most other discs are just a flat sheet of metal so it would work okay.
I’ll definitely do some research next time and see what’s about.


I had the same darrsi, but unfortunately the countersunk recess was smaller than the size of the fazer button head bolts. I had to turn the heads down on the bolts to 15 mm, an easy fix.
Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.

Jamieg285

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Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« Reply #55 on: 10 January 2018, 01:16:20 pm »
wurth time serts job done they are about the best about only take a couple of hours to do them all

I looked at those, then went and bought a cheaper alternative (Silverline threaded inserts from Amazon).

Was a piece of cake to fit and has done the job really well.  I was able to drill, tap, fit the insert, fit the disc and then remove and replace the wheel on the bike in about 45mins.   :D

Disorderlypunk

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Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« Reply #56 on: 10 January 2018, 04:17:13 pm »
That's an interesting read.  It makes me think that perhaps I should ditch the air wratchet (not impact driver) when rebuilding and stick to hand tools.


best thing i have read in ages - when dismantling i tend to use a buzz gun for most stuff as it is faster but when reassembling i might use a buzz to get things 95% done  (cam covers mainly) then i switch to hand tools just so i can feel everythings tightness then pull out the trusty torque wrench