Hi allFirst I need a new rear brake discs on the advice of my mot Any recommendations,up to £80 is my limit How easy is it to do yourselfCheers
if the wheel isnt off yet hit the bolts with some plus gas every day for a few days while your waiting for the new discif you aint got a welder but have a blowtorch get some heat on those bolts then hit them with some plus gas /wd40 / thin oil and let them cooland give them a good whack with a hammer to shock them (every little helps)there is also the candle wax trick but hardly anyone has candles anymorethen its time to get out the shortest socket you have and a breaker bar - those fuckers are tighter than a ducks arse but not as waterproof
Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 20 November 2017, 01:05:24 pmif the wheel isnt off yet hit the bolts with some plus gas every day for a few days while your waiting for the new discif you aint got a welder but have a blowtorch get some heat on those bolts then hit them with some plus gas /wd40 / thin oil and let them cooland give them a good whack with a hammer to shock them (every little helps)there is also the candle wax trick but hardly anyone has candles anymorethen its time to get out the shortest socket you have and a breaker bar - those fuckers are tighter than a ducks arse but not as waterproofI wouldn't really do this if the bike's still being used, otherwise it's all gonna get rather dangerous with oil on the disc and pads!
im not sure there is any threadlock in there (could be) the main problem we face is galvanic corrosion and it is a bastard.its the same problem removing the bolts from the front mudguard which i ended up retapping larger after drilling them outthere are all sorts of tricks out there for stuck bolts from this corrosion but the problem is you cant really get to the threads to implement themremember once it starts coming out to screw it back in a little every so often (seriously- it unbinds the crap from the threads)
i only mentioned wd40 (the devils semen) because unfortunately that seems to be the only lubrication some people tend to know aboutwd40 your ignition barrel - NO NO NO (use carb cleaner then a graphite spray - never an oil) (try carb/brake cleaner first as a test next time)wd40 your tight bolts - NO use a proper penetration spraywd40 your wifes arse - NO NO NO be nice and use Another type of penetration lubewd40 is great for some jobs dfont get me wrong and i always have some but it is rarely the correct thing to usewe have a can in our rally cars tool box but rarely use it back at the garage is its primary roll is water displacementcan it penetrate YES - is it the best HELL NO
The allen bolt head rounded off, so after a lot of swearing i cut a slot into it but it still wouldn't budge, even using an impact driver.Mate saved the day again as he had a blow torch and the heat freed it enough to undo it.Ran out of light so i'll put the new disc on tomorrow now.
Heat is your Friend when trying to undo the Disc bolts
I would advise against engine oil, as unlikely as it is there is a chance with it being a liquid that it could leak out and get onto the disc.If you want to lubricate them I would suggest a high temperature soap based bearing grease or some anti squeal brake pad grease.
Quote from: darrsi on 25 November 2017, 04:58:54 pmThe allen bolt head rounded off, so after a lot of swearing i cut a slot into it but it still wouldn't budge, even using an impact driver.Mate saved the day again as he had a blow torch and the heat freed it enough to undo it.Ran out of light so i'll put the new disc on tomorrow now.Did you not read my post Quote from: unfazed on 24 November 2017, 07:48:31 pmHeat is your Friend when trying to undo the Disc bolts I would not use oil on the bolts either, clean the threads in the wheel and use blue thread lock, as you discovered heat will soften blue threadlock enough to allow you to safely undo the bolts. Is it worth the risk of the bolt loosening, getting caught in the caliper mount and locking the back wheel, I don't think so.