Years ago I had a prick pen, now, now that's enough lads, allow me to continue.It was like a ballpoint pen with a very sharp short needle at one end and a small bulb at the other end, half way along its length it had a flying lead about 2 foot long with a small crocodile clip.Now somehow the needle and the centre contact on the bulb must of been connected and the flying lead to the mount or negative side of the bulb. It was brilliant for finding out if cables had power and you could work your way along the length of a cable or wire and find the exact point the the break was. The needle made such a fine hole in the insulation just rubbing that sport hard with a thumb nail and it seemed to disappear. I,m going to make one, it's not rocket science. Sewing machine needle, six inch length plastic tube, small bulb (12 volt) and bulb holder, wire a crock clip and builder bucket full of aradite. Jobs-a-Goodun Update:thinking about it you could do exactly the same thing using a multi meter with a very sharp positive probe
Hey guys, I've found what the problem was! Under the tank there's a box with a lot of cables and connections.Apparently some water found its way there, and this happened:https://i.imgur.com/okdXWf1.jpgThat's the connector/cable coming from the ignition, that's why when I turned the ignition on, no light would come on.The cable itself is really stiff and stripped, so I should replace all of it.Either that or replace the ignition + seat lock + petrol cap, if I don't feel like messing with wires.Maybe this wouldn't have happened if the bike had the a 10A ignition fuse (as it should) instead of the 25A one it had. I've found out about the fuse yesterday and i've already replaced it.
Hi Diogo,Me thinks you got away very lightly with that, there was potential there for a mas of destruction, possible fire in that box that could have set fire to the plastic that the box is made of melting the main fuel line from the tank to the carbs 'BOOM' Good night Fazer.
But not quite sure why you are replacing the ignition, fuel tank and seat locks, if it was just water getting into the box (plus I would guess a loose connection on the joint) causing it to ark and spark, just make a repair to that section of wiring useing a largish chocolate block connector or maybe two if you are going to replace a short length of the burnt part of cable, keeping the chocolate block connectors within the confines of the black box, give the whole of the inside of the box a goood blast of WD 40 and you should be good. Replacing all those switches will be very expensive and time consuming.
Doesn't look like water damage to me either. Looks more like a short circuit or high current load causing the connector to overheat.I guess if the connector spades are badly corroded it could cause a high resistance and result in what you see.It's possible that the previous owner had fuses blowing because of this so just chucked in a big fuse to get around it.After repairing this problem I would suggest checking all the other connectors and cleaning with Duck oil (not wd40) or acf 50 to prevent any future problems.
According to the wiring diagram for the 02 model, the ignition fuse is 20A.
Quote from: celticbiker on 19 November 2017, 09:50:48 amDoesn't look like water damage to me either. Looks more like a short circuit or high current load causing the connector to overheat.I guess if the connector spades are badly corroded it could cause a high resistance and result in what you see.It's possible that the previous owner had fuses blowing because of this so just chucked in a big fuse to get around it.After repairing this problem I would suggest checking all the other connectors and cleaning with Duck oil (not wd40) or acf 50 to prevent any future problems.But since the wire is stripped at the tip, if water got there, wouldn't it short-circuit?So, by cleaning all connectors I would lower their resistance and prevend them from overheating, is that it?
Not convinced myself that it's just water damage as plugs are melted,why is there a 25 amp fuse where a 10 amp should be.
i will repeat this bit - CORRECT TYPE OF CONNECTOR BLOCKi do that because there are certain types of block i see that never belong in a bikes wiring loom
Thank you to everyone who's taking the time to explain, as you can see i'm no expert But I'm learning bit by bitQuote from: Disorderlypunk on 19 November 2017, 11:39:17 pmi will repeat this bit - CORRECT TYPE OF CONNECTOR BLOCKi do that because there are certain types of block i see that never belong in a bikes wiring loomI was intending to try to find the same type of connector block that the fazer originally uses.But can you tell me what's the problem with that connector anyway?