gen1 fuel filter(s)

[ptolemyx]

As well as the fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump should there be what looks like a fuel filter between the fuel pump and carb's? I've good flow to the offending article and poor flow out of it????? If it's an auxiliary filter will I be okay to bypass it or is it some kind of check valve - doesn't seem to be a one way valve just poor flow blowing through it in either direction. I think a previous owner may have fitted it??? Pic shows the item in the hose between pump and carb's (temporary routing whilst working on the bike):-

[Mustang]

Id get rid of it unless your tank is rusty

[Falcon 269]

Non-standard, doesn't belong there and if it's interfering with fuel flow, ditch it. 

[unfazed]

Remove it it is not suitable for a pump system as it is too restrictive, there is a already second filter  in the T section between the carbs before fuel enters the float bowls and the one before the pump is sufficient. Make sure you get a good quality or OEM  filter as it is protecting the pump and the carbs from crap

[ptolemyx]

Thanks guys for confirming what I thought. Bike had started getting symptoms of fuel starvation. This extra fuel filter now eliminated. Good fuel flow to the carb's now.

However.......will not now start, spins over nice and fast on the starter (in neutral, clutch in, sidestand up, lights switched off) but it's like there's no spark. Tacho doesn't move to indicate anything. Yes, I have the fuel switched on under the tank. All ancillaries (lights etc) working fine. I can't see any fuses blown. Will it spin over with a faulty clutch or sidestand switch? Is there a tilt sensor I may have moved? Bike does not have stock half fairing, does one of the little black boxes in the forward wiring loom that I taped in place behind my headlights have something to do with the ignition circuit as I've just changed the brake master cylinder and may have moved something in that area?

[Gaz66]

Hi.
The little black boxes you mention.
Do you refer to the multi-plugs in the loom that originally were sited under the left fairing infill panel?


All power feeds to the clocks/lights go through these plugs, a known corrosion area.
I'd recommend a continuity test across these plugs with a multi-meter, just make sure battery is disconnected first.


Long winded job to unpick each connector & clean out internal corrosion, plus you'll need certain cleaning tools to achieve a proper clean.
I speak from personal experience, mine was in a right state.
Another option is to either solder a jumper wire across the offending connection or worse case scenario do the whole plug & cut it out.


I'm far too OCD for that ... LoL.. so i spent untold hrs going through the whole loom cleaning every connection & soaking in ACF50, bikes electrics are now mint as a result.
Also another non start issue I've come across is the starter push button, I completely pulled my switch gear apart to clean all internals with a scotch-brite pad.... Mine just stopped cranking for no reason, poor connection within switch, just glad it happened at home & not out on a ride.


Hope this helps matey?

[Mustang]

You'll have to check the wiring diagram

[ptolemyx]

Bike not starting after working on it turned into a nightmare  I even ended up with the carbs removed to check fuel supply. I had every connector that could affect the ignition apart and contacts cleaned. Finally bike now running okay, and eliminating that dodgy fuel filter has sorted the original problem. I waggled and wiggled all electrical connectors and wiring loom and went out for a long (cold and wet) ride without a problem. I must have dislodged a connection somewhere in the ancient electrics but the annoying thing is I haven't identified exactly where 

[unfazed]

All is well again,  be aware that fazer 1000 with unmodified standard carbs need full choke with a little throttle to start from cold.