Author Topic: Fork Seals..with video (Read 5758 times)

anutz · « **on:** 22 September 2017, 04:07:48 pm »

MOT Failed, leaking fork seal...

I noticed some tiny scratches on the stanchion, and the MOT man said i could do the seals again, but will most likely just leak..

Reason for post is has anyone dealt with scratches..?

Anutz

SkidT · « **Reply #1 on:** 22 September 2017, 04:32:59 pm »

Cant help with polishing out the scratches, but I had similar issues with my forks last year. Garage Changed the seal, but it blew again shortly afterwards. When it was stripped down again, there were tiny vertical scratches that had been caused by a worn bush. It wasn’t very easy to see with the fork in situ.

A new stanchion was £160 (from memory) from Yamaha plus the seal, bush, oil and labour etc. I ended up doing them both in the end. 😳

A lot of money, but that’s after four years of ownership of with zero depreciation, so can’t really grumble.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do. 👍

cl1ve2004 · « **Reply #2 on:** 22 September 2017, 05:28:49 pm »

I had similar small vertical scratches in the chrome on mine..used a "rubber" type of block taking it very steady until they

polished out (in the vertical) but not through the chrome finish..scratches still there but not as bad..did the fork

rebuild using new bits,and factored in cost of new stanchions but all ok so far.. keep my eye on the seals for weeping..

ram · « **Reply #3 on:** 22 September 2017, 05:30:19 pm »

try this first - often just grit stuck to the seal

anutz · « **Reply #4 on:** 24 September 2017, 12:09:15 am »

Didn't work...

I have seals on the way, but a question, i have seen 2 approaches to doing Seals...

One dismantles the entire fork, including taking out the damper rod.....then drivers the seal in etc

The other, simply uses a Oil Seal puller to remove the old one, and then drive the new one in, fork stays 99% intact..

I am tempted just to remove the forks, pull the oil seal, and slide the new one on, drive it home with a driver i have...why dismantle the entire thing, afterall it going the gap between the inner and out tube, which is be definition accessible whilst the things are together...

?

Hugh Mungus · « **Reply #5 on:** 24 September 2017, 06:28:10 am »

It can be tricky to get the old seal out without causing damage to the forks so be careful.
I won't say 'Don't do it like that' as I've done it myself but the last time I tried the seal wouldn't budge and I had to strip the fork down. It is easier than it sounds and didn't take too long.

Falcon 269 · « **Reply #6 on:** 24 September 2017, 10:13:33 am »

The fork bushes are prone to wearing quite early on the Gen 1 and it would be a good idea to change those at the same time as doing the seals. Just my five pennyworth.

anutz · « **Reply #7 on:** 24 September 2017, 12:23:12 pm »

Hi All,

Thanks for the input, i think i will just go the whole hog and take the forks to bits today, wait for my seals and driver ( got a universal one so i can fo 40-50 diameter forks, so will pay for itself when other bikes need em doing )

I shall have a look at the bushes as well, will be stripping them down today so might post some pics...

Thanks

Anutz

anutz · « **Reply #8 on:** 24 September 2017, 01:34:41 pm »

Forks out, top cap loosened, now, if anyone has any pointers, the damper rod bolts at the bottom, if it has them, should i crack them open now and back them out....

Falcon 269 · « **Reply #9 on:** 24 September 2017, 02:58:33 pm »

You might this useful:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67950

anutz · « **Reply #10 on:** 24 September 2017, 03:44:40 pm »

time to make a tool i think....thanks Falcon269....

anutz · « **Reply #11 on:** 24 September 2017, 04:26:03 pm »

So closer look at the stanchons, lots of wear and scoring on them, vertically, so assume the bush has worn, both are the same, so looks like i will need new ones, no point with doing it with these, as i doubt they will seal properly again, i can feel the grain with my fingernails, so its not ideal...

any ideas on the stanchions, can see its going to be a 200$ job as each one looks like 110 on the bay...

this bike is costing me an arm and a leg lol, and teaching me a few lessons.

anutz · « **Reply #12 on:** 24 September 2017, 05:51:18 pm »

OK go some bits out, waiting for some tools before i get the damper out and seperate the tubes..

But for now here is a video, and note the scoring after i pick the phone back up, had to put it down to pull the inner tube up and out a bit

So suspecting to see a bush thats had better days, i dont know how to tell but the scoring is the same on both forks so at 47K maybe that can happen, no idea..

SkidT · « **Reply #13 on:** 24 September 2017, 09:49:21 pm »

If it makes you feel any better Anutz, my Gen1 has about 22k on it. My grooves / scratches weren't anywhere near as long as yours, in fact they appeared pretty insignificant. They were however still sufficient enough for them to blow two sets of seals within a short space of time and mileage. Hence replacing both stanchions / bushes in the end.
Done a few miles on it since and they're fine now. I went for OEM parts.
Good luck. 👍

anutz · « **Reply #14 on:** 24 September 2017, 11:11:57 pm »

Thanks SkidT

Where did u get stanchions from?

also i assume you did bushes as well?

Looking on the usual places and all seems available and fair price for what it all is i suppose, so i don't mind doing it

Probably will keep it now once all serviced as have done so much on it else where, to sell it would be a waste of the effort i have put in...

anutz · « **Reply #15 on:** 24 September 2017, 11:46:22 pm »

Checked out what i need on Fowlers, not too bad but a bit more than OEM i.e. 100 more, however i think if its parts like this then it may be best to stick with OEM unless anyone has used non OEM and got a good result.

old son · « **Reply #16 on:** 25 September 2017, 06:43:32 am »

I bought some R6 forks on eBay for £100. Worth considering. Straight swop apart from bracket for mudguard.

anutz · « **Reply #17 on:** 25 September 2017, 09:37:35 am »

Howdy old son...

Thinking of alternatives now, i.e. 2nd Hand FZS1000 forks, or some R6 forks...

Is it a certain year of fork that are needed?

Thanks
Chris

old son · « **Reply #18 on:** 25 September 2017, 12:56:23 pm »

I used forks ref 5SL model R6 and upgraded the springs to 0.95 kg/mm from K-Tech. They have been on for 5 years now.

anutz · « **Reply #19 on:** 25 September 2017, 07:02:29 pm »

Found this set, look good, but caps are different color, mine are blue?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS1000-5LV-Fazer-Forks-2003-2004-2005-/263211532753?hash=item3d48a141d1:g:WtcAAOSw~G1Zvac0

Spannerhands · « **Reply #20 on:** 26 September 2017, 11:30:53 am »

After a fork seal change on mine only for it to start leaking again whilst on our annual touring holiday I stripped the forks and ended up replacing the bushes although they didn't seem too bad. This was a couple of years ago and 6000 miles approximately with no trouble since.
Also worth a mention is that the recommended oil from Yamaha (yamalube fork oil) has a very low viscosity. The only oil I found that comes close from studying actual measured viscosity is Castrol 10w mineral fork oil.
I'm now totally happy with my standard front end and I'm convinced that many of the gripes will be from owners who have unwittingly filled their forks with oil that is simply too thick, often with the preload wound right in as well.

anutz · « **Reply #21 on:** 03 October 2017, 05:54:29 pm »

Update

got a set of forks off fleabay for less than the price, and then some, of the new stanchions.

looked at a company to re-chrome, but 2 month wait time...

So will report back once fitted but expect this is the chepaest route - 200$

anutz · « **Reply #22 on:** 12 October 2017, 10:16:27 pm »

update...

new forks needed seals doing, despite sellers assurances, but stanchions are fine, however does anyone have any tips on getting the Damper rod out.

If you have done this, you will know the Damper just spins when the bottom bolt is turned, so i need a way to hold it

Looks like a 27mm socket fits over part of it but i would need to make a tool from it...

Any tips?

anutz · « **Reply #23 on:** 12 October 2017, 11:16:58 pm »

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=21875.0

anutz · « **Reply #24 on:** 14 October 2017, 03:39:10 pm »

question, got the bushing and seals in with a seal driver i got.

All seems ok and have tested them out on the bike, no leaking!

But i have not tightened up the damper rod lock nut near the top, i cannot figure out how to hold the shaft and tighten it