Date: 20-09-17  Time: 22:45 PM

Author Topic: Changing Clutch Plates  (Read 515 times)

old son

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Changing Clutch Plates
« on: 11 July 2017, 09:52:13 PM »
I have been reading the topic on smooth clutch changes and am considering drilling the holes to get more oil to the middle of my stack. I have a new set of friction plates. Would it make sense to change steel plates and springs while I am at it? The bike has done 98,000 miles. It does not slip but it does seem to drag a bit when hot.

Falcon 269

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #1 on: 11 July 2017, 10:17:26 PM »
I think I'd change the entire clutch pack if it were mine, mate.  You're going to the trouble of opening it all up to do the friction plates and that's not something you'd want to do again any time soon. :)

old son

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #2 on: 11 July 2017, 10:25:28 PM »
Thanks Mike. Would you also change the springs?  What do you think of drilling the 4mm holes to get oil into the centre of the pack?  My Clutch certainly drags when it's hot.

Falcon 269

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #3 on: 12 July 2017, 11:58:10 AM »
I'd measure the springs and see if they've set enough to warrant changing them, Shaun.  Oddly enough, I was reading the thread about drilling the clutch centre for more oil flow only last week.  If I had my clutch apart, I'd do it but mine rides fine enough as it is.  Not much town work, though ... ;)

old son

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #4 on: 13 July 2017, 07:41:24 AM »
Thanks Mike, I will do as you suggest except the springs are £8 a set so I'll change them at the same time. Most of the springs I have seen are 10-15% stronger than standard. Does that sound excessive or should I go with standard Yamaha springs?

Falcon 269

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #5 on: 13 July 2017, 09:08:09 AM »
I've never had an issue with the standard springs letting the clutch slip, mate.  Have you?  If you have, go stronger. :)

solorider

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #6 on: 15 July 2017, 08:09:37 PM »
I fitted an ebc clutch kit with standard springs which are fine, I don't have any issues with my clutch.

Gaz66

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Re: Drilling Clutch Basket
« Reply #7 on: 15 July 2017, 11:00:49 PM »
Hi matey.
Best mod you can do is drill the basket..IMHO!!
Most clutch baskets don't allow enough oil flow thru the rear plates, hence run hot & warp the steel plates.
Check out pics of a Sigma Race clutch basket on internet, it'll be a slipper basket set up, but still a clutch basket all the same.
Done all my bikes over the yrs, mucho improvement, virtually no drag if any.
I also tidy up basket fingers where friction plate tangs sit with a fine file then 800 grit wet'n'dry.
Clutch will be loads improved.
As said by others, might as well change the full clutch while it's stripped (I would).
EBC Kevlar series race plates seem to last a good while, springs are a bit heavier, so lever feel will be heavier as a result.
Change oil often too, helps no end.
Rgds
Gaz
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

old son

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #8 on: 17 July 2017, 06:13:30 AM »
Thanks guys, valuable information. I'll change everything, I'll use standard springs and I'll drill and file the clutch basket.

Does the basket need to come off to do this or can it be done in situ?

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Re: Changing Clutch Plates
« Reply #10 on: 28 July 2017, 10:19:36 PM »

Yes matey.
Remove Clutch hub centre, if you're going to drill extra oil feed holes (i would)


Drilling swarf in a motor is not good.


No need to remove outer basket, drilling mod only need to be done to inner hub.


I mark position of steel plates on outer basket, with a Sharpie marker, crack loose hub nut with ya new clutch holding tool, leave nut on, remove all plates & transfer hole centre positions to inner hub from outer basket before you remove it, now you have the spacings of the steels, up to you then how you space the holes radially, but doing it this way ensures you get oil feed holes in between the friction plates.
Do you get what i mean?


Drill 1/8 " or 3mm holes in a spiral sort of pattern, Google Sigma race clutch pics to give you an idea if you're unsure.
Slightly countersink all your holes so steels won't drag in hub grooves, use a fine file on inner side of hub to remove any drilling swarf bits, if friction & steels have left any ridges, i tidy them up with 800 grit Wet n Dry wrapped around a smooth file, avoid taking too much alloy off if poss, or you'll add extra back lash into transmission.
Rebuild clutch (replace hub nut)
Fresh Synth oil & filter, new cable if its dragging.. M&P do a good pattern cable, just like a Yamaha one with mid cable slack adjuster.


" SIMPLES"



If it ain't broke, don't fix it.