I've stopped using the K&N oil filters now. I've heard of a few cases where they fail and leak. The bit with the nut attached fails and they leak everywhere. Happened to a mate on his Speed Triple whilst zooming round the alps! Was super lucky to both not lose it on the trail of leaking oil or seize up his engine... Some reckon they fail if you try to tighten them with the nut (which you should do anyway), but my mate certainly didn't do that. Dunno, could have just been a bad batch going round. Either way, I wouldn't want to take the risk.
Hiflo are TUV approved and will perform to the same standard as OE, but they're of a lesser quality i.e. the paint is thinner and the steel is lower grade, therefore they rust much quicker, they can also be pigs to get off at times.
personally I go OE with Silkolene Comp 4.
QuoteHiflo are TUV approved and will perform to the same standard as OE, but they're of a lesser quality i.e. the paint is thinner and the steel is lower grade, therefore they rust much quicker, they can also be pigs to get off at times. HIflo, according to their web site have been making OEM filters since 1963. I've been using em for quite a few years now, it seems to be to be the same quality as the Yamaha marked product.Should be torqued to 17NM. Use one of these to fit then remove;http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_1000_fazer/04-05/picture/oil_filter_wrench/Quotepersonally I go OE with Silkolene Comp 4. Hiflo and super4 for me. Comp 4 is fully synth, OTT I'd say for road use, and if you must make sure you have some miles on the bike before you start filling it with fully synth as can polish bores which leads to a bike that burns oil.
What utter bollocks Yamaha supply bikes with fully synth in them from new matey
Quote from: Arfa on 11 July 2017, 01:09:07 pmI've stopped using the K&N oil filters now. I've heard of a few cases where they fail and leak. The bit with the nut attached fails and they leak everywhere. Happened to a mate on his Speed Triple whilst zooming round the alps! Was super lucky to both not lose it on the trail of leaking oil or seize up his engine... Some reckon they fail if you try to tighten them with the nut (which you should do anyway), but my mate certainly didn't do that. Dunno, could have just been a bad batch going round. Either way, I wouldn't want to take the risk.My last one i had of the K&N version leaked exactly as you described, and i only put it on hand tight without attempting to use the daft sizeless nut.
So, are we saying that new Yamaha's come fitted with forged pistons which don't need mating to the cylinder ???I'd have thought a new engine would at least need semi synth to aid the running in with the mineral oil properties.................or am I stuck in a time warp
Running an "engine in" is pretty much a waste of time since late 90's, running in by definition is fine machining, which wasn't possible with older materials, machining.
QuoteWhat utter bollocks Yamaha supply bikes with fully synth in them from new matey [/quote]Nope. Anyway why would they do that when the oil is ditched at 600 miles? Doh!Because you now pay for a first service and the oil and have been doing so for some time now it used to be free I wonder why..................... DohQuote from: VNA on 12 July 2017, 12:23:17 amThis is the Fazer forum, so this discussion is probably irrelevant considering the age of our bikes. But it is a long standing known issue that bikes run in gently and then filled with fully synth after the 600 mile service can end up with polished bores. Polished bores mean a bike that burns oil as the piston rings have failed to bed in.Crap utter crap old school and old habits Modern say mid 80's on engines are machined to far higher tolerances, also the use of improved and advanced materials and coatings (86 GSXR1100's had teflon coated bores) and semi synth and fully synth oils have all helped increase power, reduce wight, massively increase reliability, reduce wear. Running an "engine in" is pretty much a waste of time since late 90's, running in by definition is fine machining, which wasn't possible with older materials, machining. Running an engine at low fixed revs will not help they need varying revs. Pistons rings don't need to bed in haven't for years, out of date practices not required with newer materials.Quote from: VNA on 12 July 2017, 12:23:17 amTalking of "utter bollocks", oil filters, your thin paint, low grade steel and pain to remove claims on hiflo filters? Based on?I've supplied/fitted 100's of Hiflo filters over the years they don't last outwardly as long as OE, they are cheaper because they are not the same quality of materials. They still filter to the same standard that's why they've got TUV./font]
What utter bollocks Yamaha supply bikes with fully synth in them from new matey [/quote]Nope. Anyway why would they do that when the oil is ditched at 600 miles? Doh!
This is the Fazer forum, so this discussion is probably irrelevant considering the age of our bikes. But it is a long standing known issue that bikes run in gently and then filled with fully synth after the 600 mile service can end up with polished bores. Polished bores mean a bike that burns oil as the piston rings have failed to bed in.
Talking of "utter bollocks", oil filters, your thin paint, low grade steel and pain to remove claims on hiflo filters? Based on?
QuoteRunning an "engine in" is pretty much a waste of time since late 90's, running in by definition is fine machining, which wasn't possible with older materials, machining. Expect that pretty much all the bike manufacturers recommend it, and not just for 600 miles. And no running in is not fine machining.Bollocks indeed.
A pal of mine owned a Kawasaki dealership until retiring around 2005. They used a specific grade of oil for the first 600 miles, or whatever the mileage was for the first service. I remember they used Rock Oil and the drums in the workshop were clearly marked to avoid any confusion.
What happened to this thread, I thought it was about oil filters
A certain person as usual wanted to argue and throw it off track
But as with any internet based conversation there's a good dose of arguing and drama thrown in for good measure.... on that note I'm nearly out if popcorn...... as you were 😉😅
Dunno.I can't get 17NM oot o ma hand on a filter - not on my Fazer anyway.The other thing I find is, my hands are oily and the filter is often oily so it's difficult to get fully hand tight at all.Also once with my car I thought it had started to burn oil, nope, I didn't get the filter on tight enougth by hand - doh! I just don't want oil dripping from the bike filter cos I figure I know where it might just end up.So there's an offical figure, I've got a set of good quality torque wrenches lying there, so I just torque it on.Never had a problem getting them back off (apart from one on a car I bought but it wisnae me that put it on)17NM is only 12 lbs-ft in English. It's not a lot anyway.
''It's not that they don't change the oil it's that they don't really need to''Are you suggesting that the engine as it comes out of the factory contains no contaminants whatsoever? That the engine is assembled in perfectly sterile conditions, and that machining causes no residual material at all? We're not just talking about the bores here. The oil circulates around all parts of the engine, gearbox etc.
[/size]Of course it needs to be drained and replaced.
Which is usually free for the first service.....