Bite point on clutch?

[ProdigalSon]

I have tried searching but so I have not been able to find if my clutch action is normal or not, so far it's the only thing on the bike that I'm not loving. The clutch seems to bite really late towards the end of the lever travel, it doesn't appear to slip under load and gear changes are nice and smooth. The bug issue is I don't feel confident in trying to launch the bike quickly away from a standstill because of it.

Is this normal, is there anyway to adjust it so I can get the bite point a little further in towards the handlebar, I have a set of adjustable levers coming, normal length as I've never really got on with short levers, but the levers shouldn't make any difference to the bite point.

Any ideas peeps?

Thanks, Graham.

[PaulSmith]

The clutch is adjusted at both ends. The upper end controls the reach and the lower end (on the clutch cover above your right foot) controls the position of the bite point.

[DekF]

The 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the bars
In the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.
Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.
Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.
I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.
Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it

[PaulSmith]

The 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the bars
In the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.
Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.
Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.
I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.
Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it

That is why there are two adjustments. The slack is controlled by the adjuster on the lever, and the bite adjuster on the clutch housing wont move until the slack is taken up, but the bite adjuster controls how much it needs to move before the clutch itself engages.

[ProdigalSon]

Thanks for the replies, I shall install my new levers and then adjust from both ends and see if I can improve the feel of it.

[ianh]

My clutch is the same, with a very wide span 


Can you tell me how to go about adjusting the span and the bite please?

[tommyardin]

The 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the bars
In the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.
Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.
Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.
I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.
Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it 

[ianh]

The 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the bars
In the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.
Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.
Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.
I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.
Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it 

Thanks for getting back to me Tommy. 
I read that through, but am a little worried that my ill informed twiddling may leave the clutch slightly engaged.
That's why I was after a
1 - wind in / out the cable adjuster???
2 - tighten / loosen the bottom end ??
3 - check bite etc.
4 - if not correct, do this..... etc


If I move the adjuster near the lever, will there be an effect elsewhere?
Will I then have to compensate at the clutch end?
I know it seems an easy job, reading your summary, but I don't want to damage anything.
Thanks though

[tommyardin]

The 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the bars
In the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.
Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.
Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.
I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.
Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it 

Thanks for getting back to me Tommy. 
I read that through, but am a little worried that my ill informed twiddling may leave the clutch slightly engaged.
That's why I was after a
1 - wind in / out the cable adjuster???
2 - tighten / loosen the bottom end ??
3 - check bite etc.
4 - if not correct, do this..... etc


If I move the adjuster near the lever, will there be an effect elsewhere?
Will I then have to compensate at the clutch end?
I know it seems an easy job, reading your summary, but I don't want to damage anything.
Thanks though

Hi Ian,
You had better thank DekF for the post about the clutch setup as I just re-posted it as some of DeKF's original Post/Text had decreased in size and was not legible. 

[PieEater]

I've just replaced my clutch cable as it was getting stiff despite fairly regular lubrication and here's what I did to get it adjusted.


Wind the lever adjuster all the way in and take up all of the slack at the clutch end apart from enough to give you about 2mm of travel at the lever pivot. Take the bike for a ride and wind out the lever adjuster so you get the bite point where you want it and make sure you have no clutch slip when the power kicks in. After doing that I saw where the clutch actuation lever was positioned and how much slack I had in the cable, wound the lever adjuster back and used the clutch mount adjuster so I had it closer to where it needed to be and it's been spot on. Don't forget that there's actually a third adjustment point halfway along the cable under the left hand upper frame rail similar to the exup cable adjusters which you can use to adjust the slack if you'd rather leave the clutch mount bolts in place.


That's what I did and it worked for me, others will doubtless have their own methods.

[ianh]

I've just replaced my clutch cable as it was getting stiff despite fairly regular lubrication and here's what I did to get it adjusted.


Wind the lever adjuster all the way in and take up all of the slack at the clutch end apart from enough to give you about 2mm of travel at the lever pivot. Take the bike for a ride and wind out the lever adjuster so you get the bite point where you want it and make sure you have no clutch slip when the power kicks in. After doing that I saw where the clutch actuation lever was positioned and how much slack I had in the cable, wound the lever adjuster back and used the clutch mount adjuster so I had it closer to where it needed to be and it's been spot on. Don't forget that there's actually a third adjustment point halfway along the cable under the left hand upper frame rail similar to the exup cable adjusters which you can use to adjust the slack if you'd rather leave the clutch mount bolts in place.


That's what I did and it worked for me, others will doubtless have their own methods.

Brill, thankyou

[ProdigalSon]

I actually found the bite point on mine to be far better by simply replacing the standard levers wit adjustable ones which have a dog leg to them. The stock brake lever is adjustable for reach but the clutch isn't so I bought a pair so that they match. This may not be the answer to your problems but I certainly found that adjustable dog leg levers feel much better for me.

[ianh]

I have virtually no play in the lever at all, so not sure the adjustables would help 

[ProdigalSon]

I have virtually no play in the lever at all, so not sure the adjustables would help 

For me it changed the point at which you feel the clutch come in due to the shape of the lever, it was only a suggestion up to you whether or not you try them.

[ianh]

I've just replaced my clutch cable as it was getting stiff despite fairly regular lubrication and here's what I did to get it adjusted.


Wind the lever adjuster all the way in and take up all of the slack at the clutch end apart from enough to give you about 2mm of travel at the lever pivot. Take the bike for a ride and wind out the lever adjuster so you get the bite point where you want it and make sure you have no clutch slip when the power kicks in. After doing that I saw where the clutch actuation lever was positioned and how much slack I had in the cable, wound the lever adjuster back and used the clutch mount adjuster so I had it closer to where it needed to be and it's been spot on. Don't forget that there's actually a third adjustment point halfway along the cable under the left hand upper frame rail similar to the exup cable adjusters which you can use to adjust the slack if you'd rather leave the clutch mount bolts in place.


That's what I did and it worked for me, others will doubtless have their own methods.

I often pass Exeter. Don't suppose you could show me hoe, could you Pie Eater??