Its a shame you can not just buy the outer two because I am pretty sure that it is UV damage that makes them go hard and crack and the inside ones are sheltered
My future fzs600 I pick up on Thursday also has this problem with cracked rubbers. My initial solution was to just cover up the cracks with liquid gasket high temp silicon but also tempted just to order some of the cheap chinese ones regardless- these perhaps?https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LOPOR-Motorcycle-Carburetor-Right-left-Intake-Mainfold-for-Yamaha-FZS600-FAZER-1998-1999-2000-2001-2002/32856394719.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.c9e75214OThD4i&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10546_10340_10341_10548_5722915_5722615_10696_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10303_5722715_5711215_10313_10059_10184_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_5722515_10621_10620_10811,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=80a34f9e-fb00-449a-8c92-dc33f9c1a6b0-0&algo_pvid=80a34f9e-fb00-449a-8c92-dc33f9c1a6b0&priceBeautifyAB=0Not seen any cheap ones on ebay but the above seem correct. Unsure of quality but as a replacement for 18yr old ones might just be the ticket...Paul
So I got my inlet rubbers from China for 15 quid last week. I'm finally at the point of putting them back together so I made a little album and have some info on them.https://imgur.com/a/F5uKtIn short, I was very happy with them until I was fitting the last one and the post to connect a balancing tool came out.In long, I started with cylinder 1 on the left of the bike. As per the photos on the eBay ad they do not come with the caps to cover the vacuum gauge connection points, but that's no matter, the ones from my original rubbers are still OK. I did one at a time to try and work out which ones went where. I think there are basically 2 left ones and 2 right ones not necessarily one per each cylinder. They are labelled incorrectly on the rubbers themselves.I have my carbs off right now so I was able to try them on the carb ends with space to get a good view and they looked pretty decent. I put a bit of engine oil around the engine side, cleaned up the metal of the block with a rag and some solvent and they fitted very well.Until I got to the last one, for some reason I fitted the vacuum gauge cap and then decided to pull it off again. The whole post came off with it. There is a reasonable chance this will happen with the others as well although I haven't checked them yet. It looks like they are only secured in place with some resin of some sort and this one did not receive a good enough dollop in the right place to hold it in. In comparison to the original Yamaha ones they are also held in with some kind of adhesive resin but it looks much more robust. It's a square evenly placed around the whole post like a machine did it. The Chinese ones just have a dollop like somebody applied it with a syringe.I cannot try them with the engine running yet as I have just fitted a new cam chain and I'm waiting for a new tensioner gasket.I'm going to attempt to fix it as I think it might be OK, this is where I ask for some advice, I have to hand fibreglass resin (for boat repairs and whatnot) vulcanizing rubber glue (for bicycle inner tubes) or superglue. What do you guys recommend?
Is it not possible to buy a length of SAMCO (silicone) Hose of the correct diameter, then cut 4 correct length pieces to fit?Might be cheaper that way than a dedicated "kit" for the Fazer? Something like below...https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/universal-straight-hoses/samco-air-water-straight-silicone-hose
I removed the carb yesterday and to my surprise the joint rubber which connects the carb and enginr block are not cracked trough. Not a single one. They all have cracks on the surface, bot not one crack goes trough. So there could not be any air going in the mix trough rubber.
Quote from: Roky on 13 April 2018, 06:19:30 amI removed the carb yesterday and to my surprise the joint rubber which connects the carb and enginr block are not cracked trough. Not a single one. They all have cracks on the surface, bot not one crack goes trough. So there could not be any air going in the mix trough rubber.Would be interesting to hear how the others on here that are changing have found the inside conditions. Pictures of the outside condition would be good to compare how bad they have to look before they do actually crack all the way through.
Quote from: fazersharp on 13 April 2018, 11:59:14 amQuote from: Roky on 13 April 2018, 06:19:30 amI removed the carb yesterday and to my surprise the joint rubber which connects the carb and enginr block are not cracked trough. Not a single one. They all have cracks on the surface, bot not one crack goes trough. So there could not be any air going in the mix trough rubber.Would be interesting to hear how the others on here that are changing have found the inside conditions. Pictures of the outside condition would be good to compare how bad they have to look before they do actually crack all the way through.I looked at cracks and I estimated, that they were aprox 2-3 mm deep , so there should be still some rubber left. The problem is that now I don`t know what caouses the problem with acceleration...
easiest way to check them is start the bike let it idle and then spray the inlet rubbers with brake cleaner if thee revs go up they are leaking if not they are good , and punk mine were tarted up with what looks like rubber paint never had any problems so far so im not overly concerned the cracks on most are only on the surface
What gets me with the Chinese stuff is that they seem to go overboard with the low low cost and as a result produce "some" real crap in terms of fit and or materials. Take those inlet rubbers at £15 - what's wrong with another £10 on to and be able to produce twice the quality, £25 still very cheap. People on here have also had fitting issues with Chinese radiators.