2002 Fazer 600 Rear Wheel

[groundhogdaze]

Hi guys,


I'm a newbie looking for help so forgive me if this info is posted already somewhere on the forums but can anyone tell me if a 2002 Thundercat 600 rear wheel is the same as and will fit my 2002 FZS 600? I recently bought an old bike and it needed discs all round and whoever had it before me had used permanent loctite threadlock to secure the disc bolts and as a result 2 of the bolts have sheared and the remaining 4 are still in the wheel so I think I need a new wheel. I've checked on ebay and the cheapest rear wheel I can find is for a thundercat it looks to be exactly the same but cn anyone confirm whether or not it would fit my fazer?

[bandit]

Not sure if they are the same but if it's the thundercat wheel I think you have seen it has the brake disc still attached & as you have found they can be a pain to remove,so I would get one with the disc removed already there are plenty on Ebay for FZS. 

[groundhogdaze]

Yeas, thanks bandit I think that's the best way to go.

[Arfa]

Just resurrecting this question, as got same problem of rounded and sheared rear disc bolts. Given up on it and dropped off at local garage, who are going to look at it in the week. But I'm wondering if a new wheel is going to be easier/cheaper option.

They both share same part code on Fowler: 4JH-25338-00-** so seems like they do...
 
There's definitely more thundercat wheels on ebay and they're usually cheaper.

[bandit]

Yes, A J Sutton site says they are the same.


https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/product/yamaha/4JH25338007B/cast-wheel-rear-rear-wheel?uid=0

[darrsi]

From previous posts on here over the years you need to really heat up the bolts to stand any chance of removing them, but obviously not everyone has the right tools, know how or patience to do this so what should really be a simple job can turn into a complete nightmare. 
I've been through it myself, when only one of the six bolts came out about half way then just snapped level with the hub, and due to circumstances at the time where i just needed the bike back on the road it was quicker to buy another wheel and get the tyre changed than to give the wheel to my mechanic to try and sort out but then maybe get told a couple of days later that it was either not happening or the threads had been damaged trying to remove the snapped bolt. 

It's due to heat transfer when using the rear brake, as the disc is bolted directly to the wheel, rather than having a floating outer section like the front discs, which prevents this from happening. The two different metals of the bolts and the wheel get fused together making them a proper pain to undo, which is even worse the first time as i think whatever thread lock they originally used in the factory was some super duper strength stuff.   
And it certainly doesn't help matters with the high chance of the allen key bolt heads rounding off easily as well.
If you do get the bolts out and they have even the slightest bit of damage or rounding off then i would really suggest replacing them so that you have half a chance of removing them next time. I bought myself some spare bolts after last time so i've got them to hand if needed, and there's no need to go all gung ho with the thread lock glue either, just a tiny bit will do and avoid using the extra strong stuff, but make sure they are all torqued up correctly, as over tightening will just further the pain in the future.


I noticed i'm gonna be due a new disc in the not too distant future so as i'm reading your woes it's making me wince thinking i've got it all to come again soon.
My MOT is in early September though so i might even just buy a new disc and get it done properly at the same time, 'cos at least they'll have everything needed to hand if it becomes another stubborn bolt scenario.

[Arfa]

Yep, that pretty

From previous posts on here over the years you need to really heat up the bolts to stand any chance of removing them, but obviously not everyone has the right tools, know how or patience to do this so what should really be a simple job can turn into a complete nightmare. 

Yep, that pretty much sums my morning yesterday... :-(


Gone and picked up a Thundercat wheel for £25. Will ring garage on Monday and explain change of plan, I'm sure they'll be happier to avoid the job of bolt removal, and got to be less labour time.


Thinking with a new wheel, be best to pop in fresh bearings at same time. Koyo the recommended decent quality brand? Same size across all FZS600/Thundercats? Reuse old dust seals or get new?

[unfazed]

The only difference between the FZS600 and Thundercat wheels is the colour, they are a different shade of black 

[Fazerider]

Thinking with a new wheel, be best to pop in fresh bearings at same time. Koyo the recommended decent quality brand? Same size across all FZS600/Thundercats? Reuse old dust seals or get new?

Everyone loves changing wheel bearings “as a precaution” but it’s unnecessary unless the bearing actually exhibits roughness or free play.
I would change the dust seals though.

[Disorderlypunk]

Everyone loves changing wheel bearings “as a precaution” but it’s unnecessary unless the bearing actually exhibits roughness or free play.
I would change the dust seals though.

got to love that -no need to change bearings but get new dust seals
-where the hell you get dust seals on there own ???
-ebay is awash with bearing kits - go all out and get the lot replaced if your getting the seals done
- if you think bearings are fine and dont want to replace, rubber can be revitalised to give it a bit of extra life by giving a soak in a silicone spray as it contains plasticisers, wd can work aswell i think but might not be to same effect i get with silicone


(edit)  - dont allow to soak in wd for too long though 10-20 mins max

[Fazerider]

 

got to love that -no need to change bearings but get new dust seals
-where the hell you get dust seals on there own ???

Well, I got mine from my local dealer, but AJ Sutton etc sell them. They are the first line of defence for the bearings and are exposed to all the rain/grit and salt that our roads have to offer so they get worn… but if you think fattening them up with silicone works, go for it.
Replacing the bearings unnecessarily is a lot more work than just changing the dust seals and I prefer not to fix things that aren't broken, but each to his own I suppose.

[Disorderlypunk]

true - but i find getting that extra piece is normally only a couple quid extra if you buy the kit
wheel bearings are a piece of piss to replace anyhow - more work in getting the wheel out
-that is if you have the right tools for the job - just did a seat alhambra and i definatly didnt have the right tools lol (big press needed for that one)
freeze your new bearings and they will go in easy enough as they have shrunk

[john 087]

I gave over 3 hours trying to get the bolts out of my brake disc the other day,the fires two came out eventally and the other 4 rounded had to get a spline set and tap it in to the rounded heads and keep tapping it with loads of wd40 and turning the bolts back and forth they came out.

[unfazed]

A little bit of heat is you friend.  They are loctited in place with blue loctite

[Arfa]

Garage did have a quick attempt at bolt, but suggested the very same plan of another wheel when I rang them! Picked up a Thundercat wheel for £25, then just let local garage swap tyre, sprocket over and pop new bearings in. Let them fit my new Brembo disc (£80) with fresh Yammy bolts (£10 for set) too. Garage charged me £50 total for time. Wheel back on now, and can definitely feel the difference of fresh bearings! - either that or a week riding my wife's CBF500 has made me really appreciate the Fazer! Maybe my old ones were showing their age (14 years old and done 50K).