Leaking Fazer FZS600

[aquilaalba]

Hi all, I've recently acquired a lovely Red / Black 2001 FZS600 Fazer, runs lovely (with little misfire at low revs), but the main issue is when I came back from a short run I've spotted a slow leak of fluid (seems like the antifreeze - sweetish taste like glycol, nothing like the fuel and clear), upon further investigation it comes from one of black rubber pipes, namely one that seems to come off the carbs bottom... Could it be antifreeze in there? It stopped after a while, bike was stationary for some time, but want to investigate that before it's out again. Any ideas? It's the first pipe (there's three that look like breathers) from the right. Any ideas? Will check coolant level tomorrow.

[darrsi]

Use a torch while it's dark as the light will make leaking coolant shine and see if there's any signs of fluid higher up.
It may just be a loose jubilee clip near the filler cap under the front of the tank leaking downwards.

[noggythenog]

Sounds like its from the coolant overflow although its been a while since i had a 6.....the big plastic overflow resorvoir bottle under the seat if you look underneath has a small black hose coming out of it and down to the deck......cant quite remember the science of it all but perhaps the coolant level is too full.........it should be up to the correct level marked on the bottle.

[BBROWN1664]

Rubber pipes on the cards leaking coolant is possible as they have a car heater tube.

[Ruby Racing]

Rubber pipes on the cards leaking coolant is possible as they have a car heater tube.

Agreed. Uses the coolant to stop carb icing.

[aquilaalba]

Expansion tank (I thought it was that) was empty, unless the fluid used had no colour. It was warm (not hot) and dripping slowly. I've come across one post mentioning similar scenario when due to low level of coolant it was boiling it and dropping it on the ground via breather pipe. Sounds similar. I'll start with replacing the coolant tomorrow (if I'll manage) as I'm doing Mod1 (really soon) and Mod2 (soon) on it, so need it in top notch, wondering how many other 'little issues' it has. It does suffer a slight misfire on low revs, had new plugs (or so they've said) recently, oil levels are good, but might change them as well. There are no belts to change on this bike, right? Will take me some time to get it perfect, but I will get there. Also lights need sorting out - only one side is lit when on, left side's permanently off, same as position bulb - will replace both tomorrow.


BTW - thanks for really quick reply - didn't have as much luck on a different forum with my old XJ600 problems earlier... (hence buying Fazer - Sod's law - sorted the Divvy by now, now this one has issues...) Thanks, really appreciate it.


PS: Will check for leaks in the carbs area - it came from a pipe at the bottom of carbs, will replace all coolant, check level and see if it still drips, as it was standing for a rather long time, maybe some water accumulated somewhere and when it heated up it disposed of it?

[unfazed]

It is most likely the spring clip on the carb heater hose.
Check if it is located properly or if it is there.  Sometimes opening the clip and relocating it will stop it.
It may have been dislodged if some one had the carbs off to clean the bowls

[Bretty]

There a two small pipes coming out the back of the carbs and pointing upwards with really small clips on. I've had one burst at a junction and more recently one come off when my choke cable come loose. They are quite fragile, and at running temperatures under a bit of pressure, but you can just snip a few mm off the end and reattach.

[slappy]

Seems like the antifreeze - sweetish taste like glycol, nothing like the fuel

I would not taste a lot of it, isn't it meant to be poisonous?

[aquilaalba]

Would not dare to consume it, but anything glycol based is sweetish in taste, petrol - you can tell when it's over wet surface / smell - but leaking clear fluid can be either water or coolant. Didn't know any better way to test it. Stuck at home (bugger...) with 40C at present, was planning to go to the workshop and check the bike over. I'll start with filling it with deionised water, checking for leaks and level in expansion tank and change it for antifreeze (red - OAT - I believe) - at least it will be easier to tell where the leak is judging by the colour. I might drag it into the living room when the missus is off to sleep... Need it in three days for my Mod1!

[kucho]

check this little tubes and make sure the carburator pipes arent clogged and there is no rotting going on...

[fatboy]

It is normal to have only one headlight on dipped beam
the other comes on high beam
regards adrian

[darrsi]

It is normal to have only one headlight on dipped beam
the other comes on high beam
regards adrian

He said the left side was off, that's the one that should always be on.

[BBROWN1664]

fatboy, the left (as you sit on it) should be on all the time when they are turned on.
The right one, if the mod has not been done, will only come on when you select high beam.
If someone has done the mod, both are on for low beam but only the right one goes to the second filament on high beam leaving the left one on low beam.

[greenman]

Mine developed a misfire turned out to be plug caps I fitted ngk caps and it runs like a dream now, they're only cheep, also carbs need regular balancing, runs lumpy at low revs when they're out of balance.

[aquilaalba]

Hi all, here's the update: left light bulb shot (H1) also the position light bayonet type one is, I suspect it's twist-out but both ways it stays in. Will get this rectified. As for the main issue, changed coolant (flushed with deionised water twice before adding the real stuff), level is a tat high on the expansion tank, yet still the leak is present (probably too much of it basically) but this time you can clearly see it's the red stuff coming out. Only had a quick spin so not much testing yet.


Misfire - it tends to run clean for about two-three secs, then a slight miss, then again - 2-3 secs of normal run and miss. It seems to have a pattern, but will look to change the caps. Might be worthwhile to change the leads same time? Plugs have been (apparently) replaced recently.


Few other issues found - there's a pipe under the tank with piece of plate attached but is left loose - there's a prong on top of it and hole for screwing it down I guess, but not sure where should that be.
Also, it seems to have something loose on the forks as you can feel like the main bearings would be loose every time you 'hit' something (small potholes, etc.).


Lastly, the lock on the seat doesn't seem to work, it is open at present but the latch is only moving marginally when fiddling with the key - might had a different key for that part, as the key won't turn properly... Annoying, especially to me as I need to get little stupid niggly things right as they should be, it will haunt me now...

[red98]

Bracket with prong and screw hole sounds like the air box bracket.......got any piccies ?

[darrsi]

If you mean the small side light it just twists then drops out.

The leads are fixed to the coils, you can trim a few mm of the end to tidy them up but you can't replace just the leads.


Misfire could be anything, so you need to do things one at a time.
Trim the HT leads if you're gonna change the caps anyway. Look on Ebay for NGK SB05F as a good and inexpensive replacement part.
Check the air filter isn't all dirtied up blocking air flow.
Make sure the fuel tap is turned properly on, and for a few quid you can get a new fuel filter and change that as well.
Do a quick test on the TPS, make sure that's in the right position and functioning okay, they make a bike a bit erratic at idle and low revs when they're on their way out.
The carbs probably need balancing too i'd imagine, but you need to make sure all of the above are okay first before going anywhere near attempting that one.


TPS check      http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13864.msg157056.html#msg157056

[BBROWN1664]

From memory, the bulb holder for the sidelight is rubber on just pushes into the hole in the reflector..

[unfazed]

Hi all, here's the update: left light bulb shot (H1) also the position light bayonet type one is, I suspect it's twist-out but both ways it stays in. Will get this rectified. As for the main issue, changed coolant (flushed with deionised water twice before adding the real stuff), level is a tat high on the expansion tank, yet still the leak is present (probably too much of it basically) but this time you can clearly see it's the red stuff coming out. Only had a quick spin so not much testing yet.


Misfire - it tends to run clean for about two-three secs, then a slight miss, then again - 2-3 secs of normal run and miss. It seems to have a pattern, but will look to change the caps. Might be worthwhile to change the leads same time? Plugs have been (apparently) replaced recently.


Few other issues found - there's a pipe under the tank with piece of plate attached but is left loose - there's a prong on top of it and hole for screwing it down I guess, but not sure where should that be.
Also, it seems to have something loose on the forks as you can feel like the main bearings would be loose every time you 'hit' something (small potholes, etc.).


Lastly, the lock on the seat doesn't seem to work, it is open at present but the latch is only moving marginally when fiddling with the key - might had a different key for that part, as the key won't turn properly... Annoying, especially to me as I need to get little stupid niggly things right as they should be, it will haunt me now...

A few pictures would tell 1000 words

 

[aquilaalba]

I've attached photo showing pipe leaking coolant, will get some server details later on and will take few more shots tomorrow - and will upload some photos. As for the coolant - on second attempt it started to leak coolant after warmed up, but this can be due to the level being too high still in the expansion tank, will take it to the workshop tomorrow to drain the excess and see if it still leaks.

[unfazed]

Trace the small pipe from the filler cap under the fuel tank back to the expansion tank.
That pipe should attach to the bottom of the expansion tank.

The pipe in the picture should go to the top of the expansion tank near its filler cap

It would appear from the picture and what you describe to be connected in reverse.

[Robbie8666]

hope you get it sorted soon mate... intresting handle you got yourself! are you in Devon or Cornwall?

[aquilaalba]

Now then, there has been some development in issues with my Fazer, now I now for a fact that it is incapable of running daily for now, until the amendments are made...


- unfazed - you were spot on the problem I guess (photo 1), leaky pipe was actually a pipe that other end was connected to the bottom of the expansion tank on the front, it was going up to the top of the frame, bent there and going back down... I suppose it should be connected to the breather nipple on the tank (if I'm reading this correctly) - here's the next question then:


- two nipples on the bottom of the tanks (photo 2) - I presume one should be connected to a pipe running under the bike to release water from little breather / channel on the rim of the tank that catches the rainwater. Other one probably is the breather for the pipe in question - one from the bottom of the expansion tank... Am I right, if so, which one's which?


- the mysterious loose bracket - this is it, pictured (photo 3) - it's the pipe running from the top of the rad to the expansion tank, or at least I think this is what it is.


- latch should be stuck open or closed when not operated? Maybe the lock is shot and someone pulled it tight to keep it open, as it doesn't close at all.


And last issue - I was going to take the Fazer out for a spin, but good lady noticed my rear lights are gone... Bulbs are all fine, wires connected and the odd part - it all lights up when I press the foot brake, no reaction to lights switch or front brake lever. Just to add, just replaced the H1 bulb on the front and it seems someone hacked it as it stays on all the time. There is a slight chance that this triggered the rear cluster problem, as since I had the Fazer this bulb was out, I did not test the rear light, but I think I did test both brake lights and they were functioning... No lights on the tail at present, unless I hit the rear brake...

[unfazed]

Reroute you Fuel pipe under the square frame cross piece.
Under the fuel pipe in its present location is a 6mm bolt hole for attaching your loose bracket along side a locater hole for the fork part and the pipe attached to the bracket is routed between the back of the two right hand carbs and down the right side of the engine behind the clutch cover. the other end of the bracket attaches to the sirbox with another 6mm bolt
You are missing a little funnel piece see picture, it clips to the to the bracket. The drain holes from the tank drip into this and out the pipe attached to the bracket.

Picture below show most