paint - the right one

[frostman]

Hi Folks

a long story but wanted to get mi fazer 1000 repainted as it was tatty with minor scratches, some fool of a self proclaimed bodyshop i took it too used a blind man to spray it and yes it was the wrong colour to boot, so they resprayed it with the same incompetance with guess what another wrong colour. I have not been back for a third time and they have now decided that they no longer touch bikes.

My main concern is getting it back to its originol colour which is red its a 2002 model it used to look like this
http://databikes.com/infophoto/yamaha/fzs_1000-2002.html

Under the seat there is the label which tells me the model production code and yamaha colour code the colour code is C and i cannot find it on this list
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/yamaha-parts/color-codes.aspx

Can anyone please help

F

[unfazed]

Welcome

What is the full code under the seat and what year is the bike?

[frostman]

Hi

The sticker under the seat says 5LV1 -080 C and its a 2002

This site tells me the sticker colour code is C yet they do not list the colourt

f

[unfazed]

Based on the code 5LV1 080 C your bike is a 2001 model, most likely registered in 2002.

The official Yamaha colour name is "Vivid Red Cocktail 7" "VRC7"

On this list https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/yamaha-parts/color-codes.aspx  it is  "580    VRC7    VIVID RED COCKTAIL 7"

[bludclot]

your vivid red cocktail is a candy paint - this means that the red is actually a slightly see through ink that is applied over a base colour  (in this case silver) and then lacquered. it looks fantastic when done right but with 4 or 5 different paints to apply (etch perhaps, primer, silver, ink, lacquer) there's plenty of scope to introduce flaws.


the other trouble with candy finishes is colour matching. different base colours will give a different shade of finish. so will different numbers of ink coats. only a very experienced painter will know how many coats of ink are needed to match an existing finish, this being learned through trial and error as yamaha won't let on! even when number of gun passes is known it's difficult not to overlap ink coats to existing areas thus introducing a 'ring' type effect around a repair.


so for perfect bodywork so you have two options - either pay (a large amount of money to) an experienced bike painter or re-paint the lot.


if you have access to a shed or garage with a heater that you can clear and clean it's not beyond a do it yourself task. you can budget well over £100 for paint in aerosol format, less if you have a compressor and gun and buy it by the pot. (really it should be painted through a gun with plasticiser added for the plastics and petrol resistant lacquer for the tank, again bumping up the cost) you'll also need a machine polisher, compound and various other sundries and a great deal of patience with a meticulous attention to detail.


and that's just for one colour work! there's more grief when there's multiple colours to be applied.


with reference to the above it can be seen why bike painting is expensive.

[Millietant]

I wouldn't waste my time - I'd go to one of the reputable paint shops (check through Classic & Motorcycle Mechanics or Practical Sportsbike magazines).


It'll cost, but for my money, a good Gen1 Fazer 1000 is worth getting it right for. You're gonna keep the bike, surely, so it'll turn out pretty cheap on a cost per year basis 

[BMCfaz]

I have to agree with bludclot, painting with candy paint is a nightmare for the amateur, one speck of dirt on the colour coat and you have to start again, because the mark will be magnified as you add more coats.


Most paint sellers, however, do a metallic version of candy paints, which is usually a decent match and is much easier to apply at home. You'll struggle to get as good a finish as a paint shop, but most people never look that closely.

[frostman]

Thanks you all for taking your time and answering my post, i suspected vivid coctail red but after being burned twice i want to make sure the bike sprayer i take it too gets the right colour. There is one guy local to me who comes well recommended so we will see. The bike is to stay and i want to make sure every inch of it is tip top so its going to be worth the effort.

Thanks again

phil

[karlo]

http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.php#makeid=163&modelid=4601&prodyear=2002

As said the top colour should be Vivid red cocktail but the wrong colour base will change the actual finished colour, for example using a white base will make the finished colour a different shade than using a silver base.

[PaulSmith]

Ask yourself if you really, really want an exact match to the original. If you are doing a restoration to show at concours, then fair enough, but if it is just to tidy up a 12 year old bike you just want to ride, then I would strongly suggest you consider a nice metallic red and settle for 'good enough'.

[Fazafou]

but if it is just to tidy up a 12 year old bike you just want to ride, then I would strongly suggest you consider a nice metallic red and settle for 'good enough'.

Just to throw something else in as an option, have you considered using plastidip?

Easy to apply without a lot of the constraints of 'normal' painting and gives a good resistant Matt or gloss finish.

The best part is if you get bored or want to go back, you can then peel it off in the future.