If I disconnected the plug from the stator to the rectifier and measured that, without load, rather than the input to the RR, would I get them then?
Right, the white wires alone should give a very high reading. 90V AC might be possible. [...]The absolute value is not important as long as all 3 readings are similar and in the range 30V or up.
I've checked the Alternator with it umplugged and got readings up around the 80v AC level at 5000 rpm on all three connections, so that seems ok.
Even if all measurements are fine this is no absolute proof that the RR behaves the same while riding.
True.
To narrow down the bug you could still do some more experiments:
- Charge the battery fully up. Unplug the RR completely. If possible switch off all lights (by pulling the respective fuses if no switch is present). This should give you enough power for maybe 30 minutes. Go for some test rides.
After testing the Alternator (admittedly with the headlight and sidelights on) which only took about 5 minutes on a battery that had been charged overnight, I tried starting it again, but it wouldn't go and the voltage was about 11.95v so I'm a bit leery of that idea at the moment, but I'll bear it in mind for later.
In case you decide to swap your RR you can go for almost any other type.
Hmm, that's adding extra variables into the equation. I've put a post in the For Sale/ Wanted section and also asked on a couple of local Facebook Groups to see if anyone has one.
One of the first things taught on any of the training courses I go to is '' just because you have swapped it for a new component it is not 100% that the new one is good.'' I would try changing it under warranty.
A good point and again something I'll keep in mind.
Check the AC voltage on all three phases (white wires). All three phases should be around 20V AC and it should climb to as you rev the engine and as fazerrider states don't rev it over 5000.
If all three phase rise and fall (within a few volts of each other with the engine revs then the alternator is is doing what it is supposed to be.
They did seem to rise and fall appropriately, although I couldn't say they were "within a few volts of each other" as it was difficult to a) rev the bike, b) hold a camera phone pointing at the multimeter, c) keep a light shining on the meter readout and, d) make sure the multi-meter probes didn't fall out of the connector (I think I had too few hands!)
I'm hoping I may be able to get a RR off someone else local to swap with mine and see if that has a positive effect, but I'm not sure right now.
BTW Can I say at this point that I *really* appreciate all the help and useful suggestions I'm getting. It's better than simply chucking it at a garage and getting them to sort it out without even trying myself first
