UPDATED 2014/09/19: Include chain alignment
Did this a while ago , only just got the pics from my missus' iPhone... forgive gaps/assumptions, if there are any let me know and I'll try to expand the text...
parts required:
1. DID heavy duty X-Ring chain and sprocket kit:
http://www.bikespeeduk.com/chain-sprocket-kits/did-kits/did-gold-x-ring-kits/did-gold-x-ring-chain-sprocket-kit-yamaha-fzs600-fazer-97-03/prod_1665.html2. OEM rear wheel bearing kit + seals:
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/00/picture/rear_wheel_bearing_kit_with_dust_seals/3. Yamaha OEM upgraded front sprocket nut [do the search on these forums!]:
http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/44. Laser chain alignment tool:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Profi-SE-CAT-Motorcycle-Chain-Alignment-Tool-Dot-Laser-Type-/271480646518?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f3581eb76tools required:
1. torque wrench 70nm to 117nm (I have two, each covering the lower and upper ranges)
2. bearing driver
3. bearing removal/punch
4. 32mm socket for the front sprocket nut.
5. 27mm socket for the wheel spindle nut.
6. 24mm socket or spanner for the wheel spindle.
procedure:
Remove gear selector. NOTE the location of the mating punch hole. On my bike this points to the gap in the selector clamp. on refit, the punch marker must be in the same location.
Remove the front drive sprocket cover and move it out of the way. I used a tiewrap. I cleaned inside the cover area as it was full of shite and lube which had collected years of shit from previous years of riding when the previous owner had it.
Push back the locking tab. Loosen the sprocket nut. This will be tight and probably a bit rusty. To assist removing, have the wifey sit on the bike and apply the rear brake. The chain is still on so this will "lock" the sprocket. I used a 1metre long pipe sleeved over a socket wrench to offer extra leverage. Be sure to push in on the locknut as you apply turning force, otherwise you are twisting the nut off and may damage the transmission. This is why we didnt break the chain early on!
Pull off the sprocket. The chain will come with it.
Fit new sprocket - noting the markings on the face side when in situ - and fit the upgraded nut and then fit the new locking tab and using a punch, tap the edges securely over the nut. I didnt use loctite but hey - what's the point of riding without a little risk ! The nut should be tightened to 70nm. Again, wifey with the foot on the brake and the old chain still attached will help when tightening the nut.
Loosen rear caliper torque arm bolt (I dont remove the calliper - no need to). Remove rear wheel axle nut and chain adjuster nuts. Remove axle. Note spacers and orientation of spacers, two off, one l/h wheel side and one r/h caliper side. Remove axle. I used a socket wrench to drive out the axle, hammering from the sprocket side to the calliper side. Remove the adjuster blocks. Take the wheel off. I took the opportunity to give the area a good clean - the first one for a decade by the looks of things.
With the wheel off, support it with blocks of wood so it is off the floor. Remove sprocket nuts ensuring that you remove this in a criss cross pattern. At this point I changed the wheel bearings and cush bearings. You dont need to but why not if you've got this far.
Fit new rear sprocket noting the markings on the face when in situ. Tighten the sprocket nuts in a criss-cross pattern again, tighten upto 60Nm.
At last, break the chain. I used a cheap £30 breaker/rivet kit off eBay. Works fine. Had it many years.
Feed the new chain over the front sprocket (the cover is still off so this makes the job easier). Fit the rear wheel, push forward, bring the new chain over the swingarm and around the rear sprocket. But the link end on a clean paper towel on the floor and rivet it up. Fit the link plate and rivets and X-ring according to the instructions. The kit should have a pack of lube that you can spread over the plate and rivets. Use the rivet tool and a vernier calliper to measure the diameter of the flared rivets. Too low and the chain will come off, too tight and it will snap !
Bring the wheel back and refit the adjuster blocks. Make sure you refit in the orientation they came out. Clean the axle with WD40 and grease with lithium soap based grease. Refit axle. Tighten axle nut so that the wheel offers resistance.
Align wheel using chain alignment, info here:
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=14764.msg167280#msg167280Set chain freeplay at 35mm measuring midway at chain where it crosses the leading edge of the tyre wall.
Tighten each side of the adjuster (or loosen and push wheel forward) so that the chain runs true through to the front sprocket. Tighten adjuster locking nuts to 17nm.
Tighten axle nut to 117nM and tighten the calliper nut to 40nM.
And at last, refit sprocket cover and tighten nuts to 10nM
Finally refit gear selector noting notch location on refit.
END OF
If anyone is having a problem or needs more explanation, post below.
By the way, the laser chain alignment tool is a must. The markers on my swingarm are out so if you were tightening up the rear wheel using the adjustment markers then you may have cocked the wheel and make the bike unstable at speed. This is a common fault on many bikes I have worked on. Those tools with a metal rod are ok, but not as good as the laser tool. For £30 odd quid it pays for itself in bike performance and safety
Hope this helps.
