Oil recommendation?

[darrsi]

I've just ordered some of this oil, it's got good reviews and is a decent price as well.    (click on the demagnified link, it will work)


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf#rwid

[Tiercel]

Never heard of that brand, a quick google shows theyre a "family run oil distributor" according to their website - http://www.westwayoils.co.uk/#!about/c10th


So they buy oil from somewhere, stick their own label on it and sell it on. If theyre able to sell it on at £20 for 5 litres, and make a decent enough profit to bother with it, they must be buying some dirt cheap stuff... if it looks too good to be true, it probably is! Or maybe Im just being too cynical!    Either way let us know how it goes, if it turns out to be good, for that price Ill stock up on it!

[darrsi]

Never heard of that brand, a quick google shows theyre a "family run oil distributor" according to their website - http://www.westwayoils.co.uk/#!about/c10th


So they buy oil from somewhere, stick their own label on it and sell it on. If theyre able to sell it on at £20 for 5 litres, and make a decent enough profit to bother with it, they must be buying some dirt cheap stuff... if it looks too good to be true, it probably is! Or maybe Im just being too cynical!    Either way let us know how it goes, if it turns out to be good, for that price Ill stock up on it!

100% feedback on 11,500 sales on Ebay can't be a bad start, and i literally haven't found anything negative whatsoever about the company, just constant praise about the really quick delivery times.
I also thought i'd give the fully synthetic oil a go as well as i've never tried it before, and at that price for 5 litres it was just too tempting not to give it a go.
I'm not a cheapskate or anything, i've used the overpriced Castrol oil several times in the past but you do get the impression you're paying over the odds for the brand name, and if you don't try these new products out for yourself then you'll just never really know if they're any good or not.
I'm sure it will be fine, but i'll keep you posted on my opinion anyway.

[Slaninar]

You can tell if oil is awful immediately, or after a short time.


You can tell if it is below average only after 30-50 k miles. Increased engine wear compared to wear with a good oil.


An oil test after 6k miles of the new oil you're trying out can help determine the quality.


The point is: people buying a different oil brand, pouring it at the oil change and saying "it's good" gives one only confirmation that the oil isn't awfully bad to cause problems immediately - clutch, gear changing, engine noise etc. But by no means can you be certain the oil is really good by "testing" it like that.

[darrsi]

You can tell if oil is awful immediately, or after a short time.


You can tell if it is below average only after 30-50 k miles. Increased engine wear compared to wear with a good oil.


An oil test after 6k miles of the new oil you're trying out can help determine the quality.


The point is: people buying a different oil brand, pouring it at the oil change and saying "it's good" gives one only confirmation that the oil isn't awfully bad to cause problems immediately - clutch, gear changing, engine noise etc. But by no means can you be certain the oil is really good by "testing" it like that.

So what exactly are you suggesting?
I change the oil every 4000 miles anyway.


The only way to test oil, is by using it.


I know every sound and feel of my bike as well, so if it's really no good i will know.


But if you read what i said earlier, there's been no negative feedback anywhere that i can find, which there certainly would be if it was even slightly ropey.
Word soon gets around if something is bad, but so far it hasn't at all, which is why i'm more than willing to give it a go.

[Slaninar]

So what exactly are you suggesting?

Nothing. Just pointing out that no negative feedback doesn't mean oil is good quality. It just means it's not rubbish.


Independent testing is needed to determine the quality of a certain oil.

[unfazed]

In this claim culture era, if there was a problem with the oil, they would not stay long in business.

Plenty of examples out there of oil oil burning new car and motorcycle engines from Japan to Germany which they have blamed oil and oil additives but were proved wrong by the oil companies.
VW went so far as to specify a specific oil type and spec that you need to put in their engines and will test the oil when they get a new failed engine and if it is not to spec you are on your own.

[darrsi]

So what exactly are you suggesting?

Nothing. Just pointing out that no negative feedback doesn't mean oil is good quality. It just means it's not rubbish.


Independent testing is needed to determine the quality of a certain oil.

11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!

[Slaninar]

11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!

If it's significantly cheaper than "brand name" oils, 11500 100% positive equals, IMO: it's not making any problems after pouring it (clutch slippage, engine noise, or loosing viscosity too rapidly). Does it protect the engine nearly as good as a brand name oil, or will it get worn after several change intervals - only time and independent testing will tell.


While with tyres I'm all about customer feedback, when it comes to oils, I'm more than sceptical.

[darrsi]

11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!

If it's significantly cheaper than "brand name" oils, 11500 100% positive equals, IMO: it's not making any problems after pouring it (clutch slippage, engine noise, or loosing viscosity too rapidly). Does it protect the engine nearly as good as a brand name oil, or will it get worn after several change intervals - only time and independent testing will tell.


While with tyres I'm all about customer feedback, when it comes to oils, I'm more than sceptical.

So will you believe ME if i say it's fine and great value for money?

[Slaninar]

11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!

If it's significantly cheaper than "brand name" oils, 11500 100% positive equals, IMO: it's not making any problems after pouring it (clutch slippage, engine noise, or loosing viscosity too rapidly). Does it protect the engine nearly as good as a brand name oil, or will it get worn after several change intervals - only time and independent testing will tell.


While with tyres I'm all about customer feedback, when it comes to oils, I'm more than sceptical.

So will you believe ME if i say it's fine and great value for money?

Yes, after you've used it for about 20k miles.

[darrsi]

So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. 


I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.


I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.

[mtread]

How much thread do you need? I suggest there's a reason. Means the magnet sits in a hole so collects the sludge better?

[darrsi]

How much thread do you need? I suggest there's a reason. Means the magnet sits in a hole so collects the sludge better?

That's a pretty good shout, i never thought of that.

[unfazed]

The thing is I dont do football, golf ------ anything, my bike is all I have in that respect, I dont spend any money on the bike other than fuel, do all the work myself, so £15 a year isnt much, I would say that £130 on a fuel cap is money to burn. swapping an exhaust for a different sound is money to burn, swapping leavers for stubby ones is money to burn having more than one bike is money to burn, smoking is money to burn. So there you go, blah blah blah.
Who wants to buy my old oil - only done 3000 miles. From a smoke free pet free home will send well packed in a jiffy bag.

Where in Scotland do You live?

[unfazed]

I just don't get these posts about Oil Recommendations 

What the foc is wrong with the oil Yamaha recommend for the engine?

[darrsi]

I just don't get these posts about Oil Recommendations 

What the foc is wrong with the oil Yamaha recommend for the engine?

The one i just put in my bike is gonna be absoutely fine.
As you always point out, in this day and age of the possibility of court prosecution by some sad bastard (technical term) companies simply cannot afford to mess about if they want to stay in business.
Worse still, we're talking about engine oil, which primarily HAS to be of a certain spec, and secondly, if wrong, has the capability to wreck an engine.
If their oil even came close to either wrongdoing they'd be shut down immediately.


I found a bargain......i'll be riding to work soon........i expect to get there, with zero complaints from my engine.
In fact, my old oil barely touched 4000 miles anyway so if i really didn't like it, for whatever reason, i could still use that for another 2000 miles. 
I'm 100% sure sure it'll be just fine though.

[markeb]

So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... 
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.

yup got motul in mine, gearbox horrible.. changing to Castrol soon.

[darrsi]

That oil i put in my bike has been absolutely fine, as expected. 

[Slaninar]

So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... 
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.

yup got motul in mine, gearbox horrible.. changing to Castrol soon.

And again, I can bet it's the 5100, not the Motul 7100 oil.

[Beaconsman]

Thats me knackered then! Have my Fazer 600, and my D4 ZZR1100 currently waiting new sump gasket and side engine gaskets as box blew at 34k..not happy! Hence the switch to Yamaha..

[Jules-C]

So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. 


I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.


I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.

Be careful you don't over tighten it.  Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility

[darrsi]

So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. 


I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.


I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.

Be careful you don't over tighten it.  Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility

Can't torque it, because a socket doesn't go anywhere near it, the space simply isn't there, so I just nipped it up.
I'm not heavy handed anyway, it's just that the OEM nut was made from too soft a metal, I was pretty peeved when it rounded off as I knew I'd only nipped it up last time I put it back on. 

[fazersharp]

So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. 


I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.


I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.

Be careful you don't over tighten it.  Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility

Can't torque it, because a socket doesn't go anywhere near it, the space simply isn't there, so I just nipped it up.
I'm not heavy handed anyway, it's just that the OEM nut was made from too soft a metal, I was pretty peeved when it rounded off as I knew I'd only nipped it up last time I put it back on. 

I would worry that those magnetic plugs that the magnet will come loose. Also how long is the exit tunnel because I feel that if the plug is short then the flow of oil and any bits will just flow over the exit tunnel without actually dropping or being pulled down.
And yes you can not get a socket on to it, a new crush washer each time is the best bet 

[darrsi]

So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. 


I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.


I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.

Be careful you don't over tighten it.  Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility

Can't torque it, because a socket doesn't go anywhere near it, the space simply isn't there, so I just nipped it up.
I'm not heavy handed anyway, it's just that the OEM nut was made from too soft a metal, I was pretty peeved when it rounded off as I knew I'd only nipped it up last time I put it back on. 

I would worry that those magnetic plugs that the magnet will come loose. Also how long is the exit tunnel because I feel that if the plug is short then the flow of oil and any bits will just flow over the exit tunnel without actually dropping or being pulled down.
And yes you can not get a socket on to it, a new crush washer each time is the best bet

That magnet ain't going anywhere, not sure how they've been secured into the bolt, but the magnet itself won't let go of it anyway.