Date: 24-11-17  Time: 23:59 PM

Author Topic: FZ6 Fazer Headlight modification  (Read 6232 times)

MikeRBiker

  • FOC-U Bringer of Downpours
  • GP Hero
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,668
    • View Profile
FZ6 Fazer Headlight modification
« on: 01 November 2010, 08:48:25 PM »
I have raised a new chain, as the FZ6 connection layout is slightly different to previous models.

Heres my account, and would suggest reading through other postings as well, as thats what I went by. Sorry, no photos but havent moved into digital age yet.

Tools / materials required
For the actual job.
1 to 1.5m of suitable wire. (Cost about 1.00)
(Black is least conspicuous or green if you wish to comply with colour of feed wire.)
1 x 8mm right angled female spade connector.
(About 50p from vehicle electrical outlet or scrap car/bike dealer for nothing.)
1 or 2 suitable wire connector for new connection. (Spade or bullet connectors, about 50p again.)
1 pair wire crimpers / cutters. (Pliers may suffice.)
1 length of wood or similar to support tank open. About 45 to 60cm or so.
New brighter headlight bulbs ? If youre considering upgrading bulbs nows a good time to do it.

For access to parts.
4mm hex key.
5mm hex key.
10mm spanner or socket.
Philips screw driver.

Preparation
Disconnect and remove both right and left fairing inners, as tank cannot be lifted with them in place.
2 bolts on outside of fairing each side, 1 either side of clocks, and tiny plastic screw under mirror stalks. (4mm hex key + Philips screw driver)
Unlock and remove seat to allow tank to be raised.
Disconnect 2 fuel tank front mounting bolts + raise tank. (5mm hex key)
Support with piece of wood propped against head stock.
Disconnect battery for safety purposes. (10mm socket or Phillips screw driver)
Switch of fuel supply. (I didnt bother with this bit though.)

Trace wiring loom from left handlebar control to where it meets with a multi connector.

This connector is located behind the headstock, just in front of battery box, with wires feeding to it through an opening in LHS of frame. (There is no connection box as on previous models.)
Pull 2 halves of multi connector apart for clarity.
You will see (I think) 11 wires from handlebar to connector and only 10 coming out the other side.
The spare GREEN feed wire is the one we want.

Connections
Cut or prise this wire free from connector.
Crimp new female insulated connector to green wire and male to new wire and connect together, possibly wrap in insulating tape or heat shrink to keep water out.
Run new wire through frame opening and follow main wiring loom around LHS of fairing, under the lights on towards RH headlight, securing in place with insulating tape or tie wraps as you see fit.

You will notice there are more multi wiring connectors on the inside of LH fairing.
I put a further bullet connector here so that, should I ever need to remove the fairing, I can disconnect all wires at one place without requiring access to the other connectors.

At the headlight.
Cut wire to appropriate length, allowing a little slack to man-handle it.
Crimp 8mm right angled spade connector to wire.
Remove light connector block from light and open flap on back to gain access.
Insert 8mm spade into the free space in connector and push in firmly.
Push connector onto headlight.
Tidy up any loose wire in the vicinity.

At this point refit / reconnect the battery and check everything works OK. WHICH IT WILL.
Both lights should now work on dipped beam, and the RH one will go out in preference for the other filament on full beam.
If theres any problem, check all connections, otherwise start to put everything back together.

Reassembly
Tighten up any other connections in the vicinity of battery and connectors that may have been loosened to gain access.
Turn petrol back on.
Lower petrol tank + secure.
THEN refit fairing inners.
Refit the rubber boots that go around mirror stalks.
Notice that there are rubber knobs on the rear of these gaiters which locate into holes in fairing.
Take a few seconds to locate these correctly for a good fit.
Refit seat.
Start bike to ensure no other issues. (See footnote)

AND THATS ABOUT IT !
EASY, EH ?


Now the points where I had a bit of hassle.

The multi connector located at the rear of the headstock is poked into a very tight space through an opening in the main frame on the LHS.

Unfortunately, on my bike, the wiring loom had very little slack in it and due to other cables routing through the same opening there wasnt sufficient space to pull the whole connector through this opening in order to reach the wire that you want.   

So, if yours is the same, here you have 2 options.
1. Simply cut the GREEN wire at the most accessible point + make connection there.
(In retrospect, although not ideal, this is perhaps the easiest option.)   
2. Continue to rummage around until you are able to free the connector.
(The choice I took + was somewhat more fiddly.)   

The reason I persevered was simply that I was not confident enough to go cutting wires until I was 100% convinced that it was not already connected to something else !!
However I can now confirm that it IS the GREEN wire which you require, however it is up to you to determine where it is safe to cut.

In order to gain enough free space to get at the multi connector I ended up removing the battery, and loosening the battery tray and various other bits and bobs in the vicinity so I could get my fat hands far enough in to wiggle the connector free.
None of this was difficult but it was pretty fiddly and frustrating given that I expected this to be a very quick job. Hence I refer you back to option 1 above !

Once you have the connector free proceed as in the main text above.
NB - The only difficult bit was getting TO the connector.
Once I had that free, it was extremely easy.


Problem starting bike ?
If the bike wont start, do not immediately assume you have mucked up something major in the ignition, immobiliser or alarm. Remember to check that the kill switch hasn’t been knocked by accident !!
This will be obvious to experienced bikers but somebody else WILL forget, AS I DID !!!     

Good luck and dont be put off by my lengthy description.
I may have just been unlucky !

Cheers.
Rich.

NB. This is purely an account of my experience, and I obviously accept no liability for any mistakes, accidents, or other consequences however caused, of anyone choosing to follow a similar process.
You do so at your own risk.

*****

I've had a look at this in more detail and can confirm that the connection plug is in a right bitch of a place.

One thing you new guy's will have to be careful of is cutting wires its a sure way of defaulting your warranty.

RD's idea of an intermediate connection is a good idea for isolation for fairing removal and MOT's.

The connection in the plug is reversed from the old style ones, to marry up the plug correctly you should use a male connector. With the right fitments you would only have to push in the new extra connector into the block job done.

*****

This is my account of what happened today.........

I lifted tank, and decided I was gonna go the whole hog of removing stuff to get to connector, so removed battery, hoping to take battery box out, realised that the air box was holding battery box in, removed top of air box, but still the battery box lugs were underneath this, since the battery box was of flimsy plastic, I pushed the lugs out but to no avail - the battery box looked like it was staying where it was !!  ...... a bit more thinking.... the electrical device in front of the battery box (starter soleniod??) if only I could move that me thinks, then I'd have access, realised this was held in by a plastic lug on one side and a very inaccessable screw on the other. So I pushed the plastic lug out, then pulled this device up at about a 45 degree angle, then pulling the flimsy battery box forward, I had access to the connector, and pulled it out.... at last !! I had access, then it was the easy matter of locating the green wire pulling the spade out and soldering a length of wire onto it.

I refitted everything and fired bike up, and checked ALL the switches thank god, everything is working.......

Tomorrow I will do the easy task of fitting the wire to the headlight.

Will report back tomorrow if it works.

I guess since the bike was designed to work with two lights as the wiring is all there, then the battery, alternator and related electrical items will be up to powering two headlights??? I do short journeys to work so I am fitting an inline fuse, I may disconnect the headlight for the short journey to prevent a flat battery. - and just use the two lights for long journeys.

..................finished off this morning with the wiring, included a inline fuse but I only had a 7.5amp fuse and I see from the handbook the headlight fuse should be 20amp - so it may blow, anyone know the amps/volts/watts equation?

The lights work correctly ie turn ignition on, no lights, fire bike up and both lights come on just as bike fires   

*****

got answer from google..

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

so for one headlight at 55watts = a 4.5amp fuse at minimum so 7.5 is about right.

for headlight and main beam it works out at 10amps so the handbook at 20amps seems right too.

*****
MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!

Remember that the lights dont come on until the engine is running!!!!!!! Before you double check and triple check the wiring loom.
*****

I just completed this mod and can also confirm that it was the thick lighter green cable for me (there is another thinner darker green cable which shouldn't be touched). I didn't bother removing the battery etc. as it seemed like an awful lot of hassle. I just removed the tape from around the wires that originate from the LHS handlebar right by where they disappear into the LHS of the frame. This exposed the 11 wires as described in other posts. I then cut the green with my fingers crossed, completed the rest of the work and hey presto. Looks great. Will report if I have any battery problems.



*****

Having done this on my FZ6 - I was asked to do it for someone else so I took pictures this time.

Wired up the headlight first with the right angled connector, notice the in line fuse. (wiring to be tidied up later)


removed fairing pieces to enable tank to be lifted, removed battery...




next :- see the electrical component in front of battery box, one side its bolted on (no access to bolt) the other side is held in place with a plastic lug remove this (where finger is pointed)



next swing this electrical component up and try to wiggle connector out from below (NOT EASY) here, the wiring of connector is just appearing....


wiggle connector out (NOT EASY)


having got the damn thing out, split the connector like so.


Now look at the pins, both have four on one side and six on the other, but there's an odd pin in the middle, pull this one out, it will be the thicker green wire



solder the wire running to your headlight, the rubber sleeve has been replaced over the connector (which is why it is now hidden)


Finally tuck everything away, wire here just needs tucking away now....


NB, by removing the battery, it gives a bit more room cos then the battery box can be pushed in somewhat, and swinging the electrical component to one side, there's just enough access to locate the connecter.

be warned, it aint easy.


Phil.


Originally contributed by RD, The Bean Machine, Thanos, deefer 666, whapper, Bluecray 3/2004-6/2007